Any one use Bludworth cnc cue machine ?? A friend inherited

WilleeCue said:
My G-code for shafts includes a measurement every 1/2 inch.
The more steps there are the less sanding needed to get that nice smooth profile.
The last 6 to 10 inches (toward the tip) is one step cause it is straight (pro taper).
But from the joint to about 20 inches there is a step and a measurement every 1/2 inch down the shaft.
Yes it is fairly easy and you can dupe any profile using a caliper and a spreadsheet.
It is also fairly easy to mess up.
Click to expand...
There are 4 to 5 angles on most shafts.
I didn't find a need to declare 60 locations like what you wrote.
I had only the first 2 inches as straight.
It goes up from 2" to the middle slowly.
From the joint down 3 inches is about .020 per inch.
Middle of the shaft is 1mm to 1.5mm growth from the tip. 1mm growth to the middle is still a pro-taper imo.
I don't like whippy shafts.
 
I've input every inch on the request of customers, but something like what's below works perfectly.

N2 G00 X0. Y-.5
N4 G01 Y0. F20.
N5 X6.5 Y-.0035
N6 X12.5 Y-.015
N7 X16.5 Y-.03
N8 X20.5 Y-.069
N9 X24.5 Y-.113
N10 X30. Y-.175
N11 G00 Y-.5
N12 X0.
 
Sheldon said:
I've input every inch on the request of customers, but something like what's below works perfectly.

N2 G00 X0. Y-.5
N4 G01 Y0. F20.
N5 X6.5 Y-.0035
N6 X12.5 Y-.015
N7 X16.5 Y-.03
N8 X20.5 Y-.069
N9 X24.5 Y-.113
N10 X30. Y-.175
N11 G00 Y-.5
N12 X0.
Click to expand...
I always thought the x axis was your cross slide and y the carriage?

Anyway

When I started out in building cues I tried many tapers and one day Sheldon posted a g code for a shaft he "liked" here on AZ. I wrote it down and programmed it into my cutter and guess what? Pretty much everyone likes it. I call the file SS for Sheldon Shaft to give credit where credit is due. It's about all I need excepting special requests.

I changed the axis to suit my machine and to cut from the tip to the joint and this is what it looks like. That Sheldon is a caring sharing guy!

G00 X1.000
G00 Y-000
S200
M3
M8
G01 X1.000 Y-0.100 F5.0
G01 X0.512 Y-0.100 F3.0
G01 X0.542 Y12.500 F8.0
G01 X0.572 Y16.500
G01 X0.650 Y20.500
G01 X0.738 Y24.500
G01 X0.856 Y30.200
G00 X1.000
M9
M5
G00 Y0.000
M30
 
Deruki said:
I always thought the x axis was your cross slide and y the carriage?
When I started out in building cues I tried many tapers and one day Sheldon posted a g code for a shaft he "liked" here on AZ. I wrote it down and programmed it into my cutter and guess what? Pretty much everyone likes it. I call the file SS for Sheldon Shaft to give credit where credit is due. It's about all I need excepting special requests.
I changed the axis to suit my machine and to cut from the tip to the joint and this is what it looks like. That Sheldon is a caring sharing guy!
Click to expand...
Glad to help!
Most machines and drawing programs have X as right/left Y as forward/backward and Z as up/down. I've noticed a couple of cuemakers swapping x and y, possibly so that they can draw points vertically instead of horizontally?

 
Sheldon said:
Glad to help!
Most machines and drawing programs have X as right/left Y as forward/backward and Z as up/down. I've noticed a couple of cuemakers swapping x and y, possibly so that they can draw points vertically instead of horizontally?

Click to expand...
I did it that way because all the codes Donald Bludworth wrote had Y running the length of the cue and X being the depth of cut provided by the taper bar. Z wasn't even mentioned because it is a two axis machine. At the time this was the only G code I had ever seen and I figured out what his codes all meant all while I didn't know sheep shit from shinola about standard G code. By the time I figured out that it wasn't correct I had it so ingrained in my mind I just kept writing my own simple taper code that way. But I do understand it's not right and was able to write my SS taper in my own translation accurately from the code posted by Sheldon. I later looked at Kelly's Cue Cut and realized I would have to change the axis configuration of my machines to use it so I didn't. By then there wasn't much reason to not do it manually except for wrap grooves which cue cut helps with a great deal.

Since I posted my code last year I have slowed my S number to 130 for a slower rotation. It gives a slightly smoother finish cut.
 
Coos Cues said:
I did it that way because all the codes Donald Bludworth wrote had Y running the length of the cue and X being the depth of cut provided by the taper bar. Z wasn't even mentioned because it is a two axis machine. At the time this was the only G code I had ever seen and I figured out what his codes all meant all while I didn't know sheep shit from shinola about standard G code. By the time I figured out that it wasn't correct I had it so ingrained in my mind I just kept writing my own simple taper code that way. But I do understand it's not right and was able to write my SS taper in my own translation accurately from the code posted by Sheldon. I later looked at Kelly's Cue Cut and realized I would have to change the axis configuration of my machines to use it so I didn't. By then there wasn't much reason to not do it manually except for wrap grooves which cue cut helps with a great deal.

Since I posted my code last year I have slowed my S number to 130 for a slower rotation. It gives a slightly smoother finish cut.
Click to expand...
Donald told my son he liked looking at the cue straight up and down the screen instead of sideways.
 
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