Looking to buy another lathe referably a porper model b

slim123

Active member
If anyone has a porper model b for sale, let me know, or if you have another lathe for sale let me know what you have
 
I think a older 13x40 or 12x36 is a better choice and if you’re on a budget get a Techtongda 8x31” lathe. The Porper B’s are nice cue lathes but you can get a lot more lathe for the money with a big lathe imo.
 
I think a older 13x40 or 12x36 is a better choice and if you’re on a budget get a Techtongda 8x31” lathe. The Porper B’s are nice cue lathes but you can get a lot more lathe for the money with a big lathe imo.
How much do you know about this tech tongda where are they made and where do you get accessories or support? I googled and and came up with nothing but that it was for sale in alot of places .
 
How much do you know about this tech tongda where are they made and where do you get accessories or support? I googled and and came up with nothing but that it was for sale in alot of places .
I bought one of these lathes with a shorter bed a few years ago. It is a good lathe and is precise enough for all cue work. As a metal lathe is is marginal. The chuck does center well but I replaced mine with a 6 jaw and added a 3 jaw chuck ( Hightower) to the left side of the lathe shaft.

mx210v.jpgmx210v2.jpg

Also had to replace the speed control pot as the chuck would start unexpectedly when set to zero (hard on the fingers). I use it to support my Porper Q lathe by cutting linnen tube into rings and making other cue parts. It is more than accurate enough to do joint, ferrule, and tip work. The gear drive for the feed screw is sloppy and noisy Would help a lot if there were a nylon gears available. The gear that moves the saddle X axis is very sloppy and can not be adjusted. A Porper Q lathe is a lot tighter, smoother, and quieter than this one but the Porper is weak for cutting any metal. Expect to spend a few hundred dollars tooling it up.
 
How much do you know about this tech tongda where are they made and where do you get accessories or support? I googled and and came up with nothing but that it was for sale in alot of places .
Get a 14 by 40 Grizzly lathe.
Get a taper machine.
Start making cues.
You can sell them if you quit and don't really have the heart for it.
 
The rule of thumb for any machine is....
Make it your own.
This means
** Have the basic operational knowledge to learn it's functions.**
Make sure there is some sought of tech support for it and your questions.
Good luck in your search!
 
The rule of thumb for any machine is....
Make it your own.
This means
** Have the basic operational knowledge to learn it's functions.**
Make sure there is some sought of tech support for it and your questions.
Good luck in your search!
The ever elusive customer support for machinery no longer being manufactured. I think you should offer your services for a per minute phone fee for used Porper machines. I know you know more about them than almost anyone.
 
Btw
If you find one, make sure it has the secondary idler gear next to the feed screw gear instead of the square brass block that originally came with it. This change was given to Joe a few years after thr B lathe came out.
 
Instead of the private conversations!
The early model B lathes had a square block under the saddle top plate on the right side. The left side has the feed screw gear. The problem was that the square block just had a hole for the feed screw to go thru. Over time the feed screw would cut into the hole forming somewhat threads and causing the feed screw to bind.
I changed the block out and added a secondary feed screw gear on a hinge basically, spring loaded to be able to adjust the tension so the screw wouldn't slip.
I've changed many things on this lathe. This change I gave to Mr. Porper to add to his machines to save him time and money replacing the square block. The other changes I kept to myself.
Learn your machines and make them your machines!
 
michael webb, i have the older model, do you have a picture of what you made
Hi Roy
Sorry, I'm not on here to much right now.
But it's simple to tell the difference.
Looking down on the saddle, if there are two gears for the feed screw. Then you have the upgraded saddle. The gear on the right is the idler gear, spring loaded to adjust tension. If it's just a square brass block that the feed screw goes thru, then it's the old version.
Hope this helps.
 
Hi Roy
Sorry, I'm not on here to much right now.
But it's simple to tell the difference.
Looking down on the saddle, if there are two gears for the feed screw. Then you have the upgraded saddle. The gear on the right is the idler gear, spring loaded to adjust tension. If it's just a square brass block that the feed screw goes thru, then it's the old version.
Hope this helps.
yes its the older version, is there a way to convert
 
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