Lets discuss cushion nose heights!

Anyway, moving along with the subject of cushion nose heights, how is the nose height determined on rails with subrails less than 1 11/16" thick?

For example, let's say a Gandy, or an Olhausen?
Angle of the subrail and cushion profile?
 
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Read his post, said they installed Ridgeback rails about 1 year ago.
I did. If it's not his personal table, he could be mistaken. Happens sometimes. Or an unscrupulous Installer just said he put on Ridgebacks and didnt. Happens sometimes. I learned to be suspicious of other people's work. You taught me that
 
I did. If it's not his personal table, he could be mistaken. Happens sometimes. Or an unscrupulous Installer just said he put on Ridgebacks and didnt. Happens sometimes. I learned to be suspicious of other people's work. You taught me that
Angle of the subrail and cushion profile?
I'm not providing the nose height answer, I'm asking you what it should be?
 
Never worked on an Olhausen so I don't know
You don't have to have worked on one in order to determine what the nose height needs to be, all you have to know is how to calculate it. That is what I'm trying to find out from you, do you even know how to determine the nose height of the cushions requardless of the maker of the table, if all youre given to work with is the sub rail thickness?
 
I will take a guess....

K66 cushion 21.5 deg with a 62% ball height.
Guess??? What's the nose height going to turn out to be then? In all the years I've been providing information here on AZB, I've NEVER guessed at answering one single person's questions, I DON'T guess, I either know, and answer, or if I don't know, I don't provide a guess answer, period. You are one of the posters who've called me egotistical, arrogant, had a huge ego, and everything else, and had no problem knocking me when I was banned, even took sides against me.

So now, calmly like, I'd just like to find out what YOU know about table mechanics work, that you have felt you've earned the right to jump on me in some of my posts.

Because if we can at least establish who has the right knowledge, maybe we won't butt heads again in the near, or far future.

If you simply can't answer my questions, I'll just leave it at that, and assume you have no idea what you're talking about, OR give YOU the respect you deserve!

As I've already said, the percentage of the ball thickness is only based on a 1 11/16" thick subrail, and ONLY with K55 profile cushions. You can NOT use the 63 1/2% +/-1% to determine the nose height of ANY OTHER RAILS, it don't work!
 
Guess??? What's the nose height going to turn out to be then? In all the years I've been providing information here on AZB, I've NEVER guessed at answering one single person's questions, I DON'T guess, I either know, and answer, or if I don't know, I don't provide a guess answer, period. You are one of the posters who've called me egotistical, arrogant, had a huge ego, and everything else, and had no problem knocking me when I was banned, even took sides against me.

So now, calmly like, I'd just like to find out what YOU know about table mechanics work, that you have felt you've earned the right to jump on me in some of my posts.

Because if we can at least establish who has the right knowledge, maybe we won't butt heads again in the near, or far future.

If you simply can't answer my questions, I'll just leave it at that, and assume you have no idea what you're talking about, OR give YOU the respect you deserve!

As I've already said, the percentage of the ball thickness is only based on a 1 11/16" thick subrail, and ONLY with K55 profile cushions. You can NOT use the 63 1/2% +/-1% to determine the nose height of ANY OTHER RAILS, it don't work!
I edited my post while you were replying...
1 13/32
 
I tried my best to have a calm and rational discussion with you. Apparently you're not gonna allow that to happen. I told you at the very beginning I didn't know but I went to head and took a guess anyway. This is why no one can respond to you on a forum.

I even repeated what others have said while you were banned… You're a great guy in person on the phone, but something snaps when you start typing.
I took a guess... I tried. I was hoping to learn something. Then the attacks start coming. You haven't changed a bit. I'm done.
I'm just trying to find out how much you know, that makes you qualified to answer members questions correctly. Nothing wrong with that, unless of course, you take offense to being questioned about your knowledge, after all, you sometimes work as a pool table mechanic, right?
 
I tried to do the math and k66 seemed to work at that angle. I simplified it and rounded to 1 5/8 rails.
Here's a simple formula to follow, let's call the 1 11/16" sub rail thickness and K55 cushions the godfather of pool table rail design.

Now, along comes K66 profile cushions. Here's your formula, if the Gandy rails are a 1/16" of an inch thinner, then lower the nose height a 1/16" of an inch, to 1 3/8".

If an Olhausen rail is 1 1/2" thick, that's 3/16" less thickness than 1 11/16" so lower the nose hight by 3/16" of an inch, to 1 1/4" and no, the balls won't hop.
Everyone pays attention to the nose height, but NO ONE pays attention to where the body of the cushion is behind that nose height, and it's more of the body of the cushion that really determines how that nose height is going to react, and play, not so much the nose height. The nose height has a variable setting, 1% higher equals 1/32" nose hight movement, up or down form its determined nose height, based on subrail thickness. You MUST know A) the subrail thickness and B) the determined nose height, FIRST before you can determine the subrail bevel to make A+B work together!

Does any of that make any sense to you?
 
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