You'll need to remove the clear anodizing first.
New to me Gold Crown II
- Thread starter CraigB
- Start date
There should be a relief cut into the bottom of the rail for the cloth and staples to reside. The cloth is then trimmed at the edge of it, so that the bottom of the rail sits flush on the slate. If the cloth is wrapped past that spot, it will tilt the rail slightly, causing it to not sit flush as intended.
This is what it should look like:
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Other things to look for in an installer.
Levels. Carpenter's levels are trash, they should be using a machinist's level. If they have a long carpenter's level, they should be putting the machinist's level on top of it. This can help when leveling the frame.
The frame gets leveled first, then the slates. Minimal shimming. A straight edge is another important tool for getting the slates all on the same plane.
Most mechanics are putting some paper between the seams and gluing it in a few spots so that the seam can never pop on you.
Laying out the cloth and marking the stretch index all the way around is another good sign. The grain of the cloth should be nice and straight when they're done, and drawing some lines on the cloth is a good way to ensure that. It also ensures an even stretch in all directions.
They should also be carrying a torque wrench, and using it on the rail bolts. They should also inform you that they need to be re-torqued after everything settles.
Levels. Carpenter's levels are trash, they should be using a machinist's level. If they have a long carpenter's level, they should be putting the machinist's level on top of it. This can help when leveling the frame.
The frame gets leveled first, then the slates. Minimal shimming. A straight edge is another important tool for getting the slates all on the same plane.
Most mechanics are putting some paper between the seams and gluing it in a few spots so that the seam can never pop on you.
Laying out the cloth and marking the stretch index all the way around is another good sign. The grain of the cloth should be nice and straight when they're done, and drawing some lines on the cloth is a good way to ensure that. It also ensures an even stretch in all directions.
They should also be carrying a torque wrench, and using it on the rail bolts. They should also inform you that they need to be re-torqued after everything settles.
Thank you that is very informative and well received.
I've seen a guy use lines and marks on cloth headliners in muscle cars to be able to start cent front/rear windshield glass and measure stretch on each sides.
I'll try and ask the guy about this w/o being perceived as questioning his abilities.
Where are you located and who are you having set up the table?
Check the directory in this section. There are a couple in GA which don't look too far from you, depending on where they are in GA. If they're in the Atlanta area, it looks close.
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Mechanics travel a lot farther than that. That's considered close to most.
Thousands went through the gutter and stayed flat.
Thousands were in pool halls and resold and refurbished.
Among the best playing tables were old GCII'ds at Hard Times.
Dare I say even Diamond wouldn't play as good as a well-set GC2 ?
What made a GC2 better than a GC1?
Not as old.
Attachments
All that says is that there are no differences between the GCI thru GCV other than pinned slates on the the GCI's and GCII's. It makes no mention of early GC's being better or worse nor does it say anything about Brunstone or slate. If you have adjustable feet and threaded inserts on a GCI it is non different than a GCII and it was only the very early GCI's that didnt have adjustable feet and threaded rail inserts.
Or 3 and up were not made in the US.
Or 3 did not have Monarch.
Don't know where they where made and its probably a good move to get away from Monarchs.
Yes they did, and yes they were. In fact, the first GC3's had the exact same cushions as the 1's had, and were pin&dowel Brunstone as well.