Turning diameters....

[Billiard Architect]

I have some 2 inch rounds I turned around a year and a half ago. It is time to put them together for the handle of my cue. I will be using a tenon with 3/8 all thread to pull it together. Once I do... what is a general rule of thumb for turning diameters? What minumum diameter should my first turn be? Let it sit... second turn diameter minimum... let it sit... taper turn diameter.... etc. What has worked best for you?

Thank you in advance!

 

[Renegade_56]

I have some 2 inch rounds I turned around a year and a half ago. It is time to put them together for the handle of my cue. I will be using a tenon with 3/8 all thread to pull it together. Once I do... what is a general rule of thumb for turning diameters? What minumum diameter should my first turn be? Let it sit... second turn diameter minimum... let it sit... taper turn diameter.... etc. What has worked best for you?

Thank you in advance!

They may have been ready a year and a half ago when you originally turned them, depends on how dry they were, and how dry they are now. That said, assuming they are now dry enough, I always turn them in stages largely proportionate to the amount they move. If they have moved a lot then don't turn it all straight, take off maybe half the movement then let them rest a month or so minimum then do it again. The goal is to get to stable straight wood before you start building a cue with it. You can't build a straight cue with crooked wood. If it has moved a lot and you are getting close to construction sizes then the blanks may not ever be stable enough to stay straight, unless you shorten them, use them in butts or even segments. On the other hand if the blanks are stable and holding straightness just stage them down over time to get to your construction sizes when you actually plan to use them. Each piece of wood is different.

 

[Billiard Architect]

They may have been ready a year and a half ago when you originally turned them, depends on how dry they were, and how dry they are now. That said, assuming they are now dry enough, I always turn them in stages largely proportionate to the amount they move. If they have moved a lot then don't turn it all straight, take off maybe half the movement then let them rest a month or so minimum then do it again. The goal is to get to stable straight wood before you start building a cue with it. You can't build a straight cue with crooked wood. If it has moved a lot and you are getting close to construction sizes then the blanks may not ever be stable enough to stay straight, unless you shorten them, use them in butts or even segments. On the other hand if the blanks are stable and holding straightness just stage them down over time to get to your construction sizes when you actually plan to use them. Each piece of wood is different.

I was afraid to get an answer like this

So let me ask a little differently. What is a good starting diameter? They are 2 inches now. After I assemble everything and take my first pass what size is desirable?

 

[Renegade_56]

I was afraid to get an answer like this

So let me ask a little differently. What is a good starting diameter? They are 2 inches now. After I assemble everything and take my first pass what size is desirable?

I assume you are attempting to build a cue, and so you need a plan of what that cue will consist of, as well as final dimensions. Probably the best bet for you, based on your questions, asked and not asked, is to invest in Chris Hightower's book, https://www.cuesmith.com/the-cue-building-book-from-tree-to-tip-to-trade-show/ . It will help you much more than anyone on this site can in this stage of your cue building journey.

 

[Billiard Architect]

I assume you are attempting to build a cue, and so you need a plan of what that cue will consist of, as well as final dimensions. Probably the best bet for you, based on your questions, asked and not asked, is to invest in Chris Hightower's book, https://www.cuesmith.com/the-cue-building-book-from-tree-to-tip-to-trade-show/ . It will help you much more than anyone on this site can in this stage of your cue building journey.

I own the book... was just trying to find out what experienced cue makers found to work for them. Apologies for asking a noob question.

 

[conetip]

You need the wood to be stable and dry. If the wood keeps moving with each pass, is the wood unstable? Or is the process of reducing the diameter, causing stress in the wood again? When you drill and bore the hole to be threaded, is the thread still straight to the run of the workpiece ,ie has the wood moved again. It just takes time to learn , and the humidity and changes that are in your shop helping or hindering your processes. There are many ways to trim wood, but the best results always come from cool cutting sharp tools, they put the least amount of stress into the material. With out picture or knowing the wood and grain etc, it is difficult to tell. What shape and finial diameter do you want on your cues? Is it going to get a leather wrap or Irish linen cord ? or just plain or something else?
You can do the 1/2 rule, take off 1/2 of what diameter you are now, and the finish diameter. So from 50mm and going to final size of 32mm, you can bring it down to 41mm over a few passes and then let it rest and see of it stays straight. Then go from there.
It is no point trying to make a stable straight handle from unstable stock. You need to find materials or a way to stabilise the materials first.
Make a few test handles , see how it goes with your setup and work from there. Experience is where the real knowledge is. And sometimes you learn more from mistakes than you do otherwise.

 

[Renegade_56]

I own the book... was just trying to find out what experienced cue makers found to work for them. Apologies for asking a noob question.

Nothing at all wrong with you asking noob questions, and i hope I didn't infer that. Chris' book covers this topic quite well, and so rather than typing all day I just sent you to better info than I may give you.

 

[Sheldon]

I would never assemble anything more than 100 thousandths over finished size, and usually far less than that. Turn those part separately a BUNCH more times.
It will work, and some do assemble way sooner, but you risk your joint being off-center by the time it's done.

 

[JoeyInCali]

I have some 2 inch rounds I turned around a year and a half ago. It is time to put them together for the handle of my cue. I will be using a tenon with 3/8 all thread to pull it together. Once I do... what is a general rule of thumb for turning diameters? What minumum diameter should my first turn be? Let it sit... second turn diameter minimum... let it sit... taper turn diameter.... etc. What has worked best for you?

Thank you in advance!

You need three taper cuts, minimum, imo before assembly.
Way too fat when they're straight rods.