Question about chalk and hard tip

irspow

irspow

Member
Couldn’t find a specific answer here with search function.

So I recently switched to using a hard tip. I am really liking how it plays (for me).

However, I can’t seem to get an even layer of chalk applied to the whole tip. There are small points and arcs where the chalk is ‘thinner’ than other areas. Also there are extra spots that lose some chalk after making a shot in addition to the contact point.

I’ve tried using a tapper and sandpaper which make more chalk stick in general, but there are still areas with different amounts of chalk. Is this something normal having to do with a hard tip or am I just a moron? 😂 So my real questions are:

What would be the best way to make a hard tip (or maybe any tip) accept chalk evenly across its surface?

Shouldn’t chalk remain on the tip after a shot where it was not part of the contact point?

Thanks
 
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ChrisinNC said:
A number of our tournament players that use their own premium chalks like Taom still go to the master chalk for their break cue and their jump cue before a shot. I assume that has something to do with their thinking their premium chalks don’t work as well on a hard tip.
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A friend gave this to HeddaRo block to me. Didn't want to seem rude as we play together often. It is a similar consistency to Master/Triangle. Holds well on the break cue, and is easily applied. They make a variety of colors, and the packaging is where the price comes into it I imagine...

As for Pyro, I use the pink colored one, which leaves virtually zero residue on tables, and leaves my ferrules clean with no discoloration. Which is why I opted for this color with my pool cue.

This is after nearly a years worth of play, 4-7 days roughly per week, roughly two hours per session. My v10 hasn't been given the full treatment, as I have played snooker on average twice a month since I took up playing pool.


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ChrisinNC said:
A number of our tournament players that use their own premium chalks like Taom still go to the master chalk for their break cue and their jump cue before a shot. I assume that has something to do with their thinking their premium chalks don’t work as well on a hard tip.
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I’m still trying to figure out why these new cubes of paste so many have become enamored with are called “premium chalk”?
 
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Flakeandrun said:
This is after nearly a years worth of play, 4-7 days roughly per week, roughly two hours per session. My v10 hasn't been given the full treatment, as I have played snooker on average twice a month since I took up playing pool.
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Mine look like that after a week. I must be chalking to enthusiastically. That might also explain why my tips last 4-5 months.
 
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tomatoshooter said:
Mine look like that after a week. I must be chalking to enthusiastically. That might also explain why my tips last 4-5 months.
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The HeddaRo was a gift I recieved in Jan 2023, the Taom I got at the end of Feb 2023 (I think, so roughly that time).
I am a bit more vigorous with the HR on my break cue, and I'm pretty generous with applying the Taom on the playing cue, but generally quite light-handed.
 
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Mostly, I play with layered hard tips and like the OP, I find it difficult to get an even layer with many chalks. I used to rough up the tip with either a pick or with a Willard shaper. I no longer use either because in my experience, they led to delamination over time.

Now I roughen my tips prior to each playing session with a Morakami Gator Shaper (Cue Components). Other companies make similar tools but for a lot more money. It does a great job prepping a tip for play and does not appear to be substantially sanding off the outer layer of tip. I haven’t had a delamination since I started using the Gator Shaper which was more than 5 years ago.

I haven’t experimented with any of the new, expensive chalks. I have found that the different colors of Master chalk coat my tips differently. IMO, the best Master chalk is Sky Blue. I make visually checking for coverage to be part of my pre-shot routine. With Sky Blue, the check provides a good break between shots. For some colors, the effort to evenly coat the tip is almost a distraction.
 
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Black-Balled said:
Performance?

Even that sub-premium blue diamond stuff applies better than masters.
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Well, I know you can play so I’ll take your word for it. I was more referring to the “consistency” of said new “chalks”. I think of something dry with the word “chalk”. Given the nature of these new products I think “tip paste” would be an apt description than chalk.

I agree with you regarding Masters. I always used Triangle until I tried the Magic Chalk. I bought 10 cubes from the guy that used to sell it on here. As you can see from the photo I still have several of those pieces with the original Black Label. Covers well, grips very well and not messy.
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Colonel said:
Well, I know you can play so I’ll take your word for it. I was more referring to the “consistency” of said new “chalks”. I think of something dry with the word “chalk”. Given the nature of these new products I think “tip paste” would be an apt description than chalk.

I agree with you regarding Masters. I always used Triangle until I tried the Magic Chalk. I bought 10 cubes from the guy that used to sell it on here. As you can see from the photo I still have several of those pieces with the original Black Label. Covers well, grips very well and not messy.
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You remind me I need some of that...
 
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Sealegs50 said:
Mostly, I play with layered hard tips and like the OP, I find it difficult to get an even layer with many chalks. I used to rough up the tip with either a pick or with a Willard shaper. I no longer use either because in my experience, they led to delamination over time.

Now I roughen my tips prior to each playing session with a Morakami Gator Shaper (Cue Components). Other companies make similar tools but for a lot more money. It does a great job prepping a tip for play and does not appear to be substantially sanding off the outer layer of tip. I haven’t had a delamination since I started using the Gator Shaper which was more than 5 years ago.

I haven’t experimented with any of the new, expensive chalks. I have found that the different colors of Master chalk coat my tips differently. IMO, the best Master chalk is Sky Blue. I make visually checking for coverage to be part of my pre-shot routine. With Sky Blue, the check provides a good break between shots. For some colors, the effort to evenly coat the tip is almost a distraction.
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This cost me 30rmb (3$), a little 'tap tap tap', job done. I was using very fine grit sandpaper on my snooker cue, and the Mezz tip card (which I still use, but not for the purpose of 'roughing') on my pool cue. This is more convenient, and obviously gives less chance of misshaping your tip if it isn't actually needing a re-shaping and you have the touch of an elephant like me. I actually get my tip shaped and roughed every so often on the lathe at my local hall, then sparingly use a tool to maintain. Give the tip a gentle wipe after each session, give it a little tap tap with this before each session with this.

IMG_0982 Large.jpeg
 
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DeadStick said:
Can confirm that. Taom V10 doesn’t cover well on stock phenolic or Taom 2.0 break/jump tips. But after scuffing them a bit with a coarse sandpaper, it covers enough for my tastes.
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Resurrecting a thread from earlier this year.

Yesterday I purchased a used jump / break cue with a phenolic tip. Taom V10 has a really tough time sticking to it. I switched back to Masters for breaking (only) with much better results.

I am just getting used to the break cue. It came as 25 ounces, way too heavy, so I removed the 2.5 ounce weight bolt. It's still pretty heavy, but more manageable. I bought it more for jumping, though. Jumping is yet another skill I will have to learn. . . . Wish me luck.

I've only tried a handful of jumps, not much success. Gonna re-review some jump vids I viewed yesterday. Still trying to determine if dart or "regular" jump arm position is better for me. (I'm only 5'5", so it's kind of hard for me to get over shots, especially if not close to a rail.) I'm also using an extra piece of cloth under the CB to save the table.
 
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dquarasr said:
Resurrecting a thread from earlier this year.

Yesterday I purchased a used jump / break cue with a phenolic tip. Taom V10 has a really tough time sticking to it. I switched back to Masters for breaking (only) with much better results.

I am just getting used to the break cue. It came as 25 ounces, way too heavy, so I removed the 2.5 ounce weight bolt. It's still pretty heavy, but more manageable. I bought it more for jumping, though. Jumping is yet another skill I will have to learn. . . . Wish me luck.

I've only tried a handful of jumps, not much success. Gonna re-review some jump vids I viewed yesterday. Still trying to determine if dart or "regular" jump arm position is better for me. (I'm only 5'5", so it's kind of hard for me to get over shots, especially if not close to a rail.) I'm also using an extra piece of cloth under the CB to save the table.
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The extra piece of cloth really hinders a jump. It absorbs the hit and ball doesn't come off the slate right.
 
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dquarasr said:
Understood, thanks. Fine line between cloth preservation and skill acquisition.
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Especially if you're doing it in someone else's establishment.
I have Mezz Sonic tips on my Kai Breakers. I noticed the exact same thing with Toam and not getting any coverage on the tip, I scuff often. Brian.
 
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dquarasr said:
I am just getting used to the break cue. It came as 25 ounces, way too heavy, so I removed the 2.5 ounce weight bolt. It's still pretty heavy, but more manageable. I bought it more for jumping, though. Jumping is yet another skill I will have to learn. . . . Wish me luck.

I've only tried a handful of jumps, not much success.
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Jump cues are typically much lighter than other cues.

pj
chgo
 
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Patrick Johnson said:
Jump cues are typically much lighter than other cues.

pj
chgo
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Yes. The cue comes in three pieces. Typically-lengthed shaft; butt in two pieces, heavy near the stopper where the weight bolt was. The two pieces that form the jump cue comprise the shaft and the “middle” part of the cue and is pretty light.

Shaft: 4.9oz / 138g
Middle: 6.4oz / 182g

Total jump cue portion 11.3oz / 320g

Butt section 14.1oz / 401g

Cue total: 25.4 / 721g - which surprising because that’s AFTER I removed the weight bolt.

BTW, it’s a Players. Marked “2010” near the stopper.
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There may be some negative thoughts about this but with Kamui .98 you will get good coverage and will not need to chalk every shot as most players do. I only chalk about every 15 or 20 shots.
 
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