5 min Epoxy. The correct answer!

Dave38 said:
Have had some experiences with repairs lately also. The main problem seems to be not prepping the inside properly. The joint was a small name company, and the insert seemed to be similar to delrin, Was able to just peel the epoxy right off. I actually applied expoxy(west) to the insert and when dried, it peeled off too.The ferrule popping off was actually a big name one, they never sanded the inside before gluing. Too many people are getting into shaft making with little to no idea what they are doing and how to prep correctly, IMO. SMH.
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I've seen that material, this person who assembled this did just that, premade parts that won't take glue, it's not delrin, but just like it
 
Michael Webb said:
It doesn't bond.
Don't use it!!!!
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Would you have an idea what temp I need to soften 5min epoxy.
I'm trying to replace an eyelet on a fishing rod and don't want to damage the graphite blank.
I was told a hair dryer would be hot enough. Gave up after 10 mins.

I guess the other question would be how much heat can graphite handle before permanent damage.
I do have a Heat Gun but I'm skittish about using it.
 
3kushn said:
Would you have an idea what temp I need to soften 5min epoxy.
I'm trying to replace an eyelet on a fishing rod and don't want to damage the graphite blank.
I was told a hair dryer would be hot enough. Gave up after 10 mins.

I guess the other question would be how much heat can graphite handle before permanent damage.
I do have a Heat Gun but I'm skittish about using it.
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Sorry. I am no help on that one.
 
Golf shafting epoxy that is designed for impact type applications is what I use.
Am I right or wrong here.
Have never had any failures yet.
Carbon Fiber is new to me and I am open to new procedures about good solid bonding.
No cue maker want any of his his joint work to fail.
 
WilleeCue said:
Golf shafting epoxy that is designed for impact type applications is what I use.
Am I right or wrong here.
Have never had any failures yet.
Carbon Fiber is new to me and I am open to new procedures about good solid bonding.
No cue maker want any of his his joint work to fail.
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Yea. A few people as well as some research i found, all aligning to say they also uss dp460 on golf club shafts, specifically to assemble the highest abus end.
 
rack runner said:
some dp420 and good surface prep/with DA. Should be pretty impossible to come out :)
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I'm always interested in a better adhesive for CF in particular. It looks like you have to buy an application tip/device which appears to waste as much leftover product as we would use for a ferrule/vault plate or collar installation. Is that the case?
Thanks for any information,
Gary
 
GBCues said:
I'm always interested in a better adhesive for CF in particular. It looks like you have to buy an application tip/device which appears to waste as much leftover product as we would use for a ferrule/vault plate or collar installation. Is that the case?
Thanks for any information,
Gary
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The tip is a mixing tip and it does waste a lot of product when using small amounts. The tip isn't necessary, tho--it is a 1:1 by volume epoxy, you can mix with a stick. The applicator gun will run you a few bucks, tho (you should be able to get a knock-off for ~$25).

*This post is not specifically about the dp420, just about the style of cartridge and dispensing. Many epoxies are available in similar packages.
 
GBCues said:
I'm always interested in a better adhesive for CF in particular. It looks like you have to buy an application tip/device which appears to waste as much leftover product as we would use for a ferrule/vault plate or collar installation. Is that the case?
Thanks for any information,
Gary
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Gary,
I use DP460 for several hard to bond applications. It has a slightly longer working time than DP420 but is also a bit stronger. DP460 looks more to be 2:1 but it's easy to work with. The plungers move easily and smoothly so it's easy to simply push on them with a dowel or even a pencil and keep them controlled and even. I've never bothered with a gun or the tips. I mix with a stick. The tips would be very wasteful for our use case and in my experience the gun isn't necessary. The reusable cap is really nice on these cartridges and seals tight. I've been using the same cartridge for almost a year and in my tests it doesn't appear to have lost any strength (I test each time before I use it to make sure).
DP460sm.jpg

DP460Capsm.jpg

On another note, I used some of this to reattach the glass see-through top on our washing machine and it has been going strong for about a year or so. The factory epoxy let go in the first three months in comparison. I figure if it can handle the hot steamy wet environment attaching smooth glass to smooth plastic it must be pretty good stuff.

I've never had any issues with it, with the disclaimer I've not done any CF shafts yet, but I can't imagine it not working perfectly for that as long as the prep is done correctly. I've used it for difficult to glue applications several times. A little on the spendy side but good stuff.

HTH
Ken
 
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When I see epoxy breaking adhesion like that it tells me the product is probably a TPO which is a blended product.
It's a very difficult plastic to get anything to stick to it. Look to the auto body repair field and see if you can purchase a small amount
of "BULLDOG". It's an adhesion promoter used in Plastic Repair. SEM, 3M, DOMINION SURESEAL and others all make adhesives
designed to help the adhesion to OLEFINS.
 
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