Choice of cushions.....

Question for experienced guys, for my informations, does K66 play as well as K55 on subrail of 1 3/4'' of height? Thanks.
No, they're not designed for rails that thick. From the sub rail, angled down to the 1 7/16" nose height, it would be to much of a downhill slope on the top of the cushions. You'll end up with the banking short and springy rail effect.
 
No, they're not designed for rails that thick. From the sub rail, angled down to the 1 7/16" nose height, it would be to much of a downhill slope on the top of the cushions. You'll end up with the banking short and springy rail effect.
Ok, Thanks a lot RKC!!
 
No, they're not designed for rails that thick. From the sub rail, angled down to the 1 7/16" nose height, it would be to much of a downhill slope on the top of the cushions. You'll end up with the banking short and springy rail effect.
Does a 1 3/4"" subrail will play better than 1 5/8'' subrail with K55 cushion? Thanks!
 
I'm Curious if any of you have used the tournament CBPA cloth and your thoughts on it. I used it for the first time a week ago because of cost difference. Still forming some opinions and of course wear will take time to see.

I definitely agree that the champion stretches a lot.
Yes I use it now. I installed it and then soaked it with water and stretched the shit out of it! It's not bad cloth at all.
 
We ordered samples of Championship, MBS cushions and cloth 3030, to properly install these cloths is there a particular way or the best is to stretch it as much as possible and remove 3/4'' or other as a measurement on the short side. Thanks!

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Yes I use it now. I installed it and then soaked it with water and stretched the shit out of it! It's not bad cloth at all.

Never heard of soaking the cloth with water. Did you soak it after you stapled and installed it or before?
After. It's an old school way that makes it really tight.
Never heard of soaking the cloth with water. Did you soak it after you stapled and installed it or before?
It loosened up after the fact. So we un stapled it, soaked it, stretched it wet and then stapled it back. Once it dries it pulls tighter.
 
After. It's an old school way that makes it really tight.

It loosened up after the fact. So we un stapled it, soaked it, stretched it wet and then stapled it back. Once it dries it pulls tighter.
Thanks, a little interesting. I used it for the first time a couple weeks ago and had a little struggle around the side pocket. It didn't seem the stretch as easy as simonis which is what I'm used to using. Now he tells me it wrinkled up a little bit but not effecting play. So I may think about trying that when I go back to tighten it up.
My one concern would be if there'd be water staining. If I only did a section. Did you have to soak the whole thing?
 
Thanks, a little interesting. I used it for the first time a couple weeks ago and had a little struggle around the side pocket. It didn't seem the stretch as easy as simonis which is what I'm used to using. Now he tells me it wrinkled up a little bit but not effecting play. So I may think about trying that when I go back to tighten it up.
My one concern would be if there'd be water staining. If I only did a section. Did you have to soak the whole thing?
These slates are over 100 yrs old. I didn't have any water stains once it dried. Once it dried it became really tight. Just clean your slate off if needed before stapling it back down.
Thanks, a little interesting. I used it for the first time a couple weeks ago and had a little struggle around the side pocket. It didn't seem the stretch as easy as simonis which is what I'm used to using. Now he tells me it wrinkled up a little bit but not effecting play. So I may think about trying that when I go back to tighten it up.
My one concern would be if there'd be water staining. If I only did a section. Did you have to soak the whole thing?

Thanks, a little interesting. I used it for the first time a couple weeks ago and had a little struggle around the side pocket. It didn't seem the stretch as easy as simonis which is what I'm used to using. Now he tells me it wrinkled up a little bit but not effecting play. So I may think about trying that when I go back to tighten it up.
My one concern would be if there'd be water staining. If I only did a section. Did you have to soak the whole thing?
 
Throw a fan on it once done.

Throw a fan on it once done.

Throw a fan on it once done.

Thanks, a little interesting. I used it for the first time a couple weeks ago and had a little struggle around the side pocket. It didn't seem the stretch as easy as simonis which is what I'm used to using. Now he tells me it wrinkled up a little bit but not effecting play. So I may think about trying that when I go back to tighten it up.
My one concern would be if there'd be water staining. If I only did a section. Did you have to soak the whole thing?
Throw a fan on it once done.

Throw a fan on it once done.

Never heard of soaking the cloth with water. Did you soak it after you stapled and installed it or before?

Thanks! And yeah I'm working with an 100-year-old set of slates too.
I'm somewhat new at this. How long have you been doing it?
My first one. 4.25 pockets, superspeed cushions and CPBA cloth. You mite not be happy with the play (hate telling you that) they play much different then Goldcrown and Diamond. Go onto FB market place in Charleston WV and look at it. Asking $1400 OBO. Picking up a Goldcrown.
 
Hey RKC, how should I stretch the 3030 from Championship, I'm your Quebeker Canadian boy school, don't let me down!!😅
 
Hello, does the K55 MBS have a good rebound in compasraison to high end cushion or they are considerably more dead? Thank You!
 
Hello, does the K55 MBS have a good rebound in compasraison to high end cushion or they are considerably more dead? Thank You!
The cushions play pretty much the same as all K55 cushions, for the comparison, but don't fail to understand the cushions will also only play as good as the subrail design they're mounted on, as that has the complete control over how the cushions will react as far as speed and bounce is concerned.
 
The cushions play pretty much the same as all K55 cushions, for the comparison, but don't fail to understand the cushions will also only play as good as the subrail design they're mounted on, as that has the complete control over how the cushions will react as far as speed and bounce is concerned.
It must have something to do with the strength of the rail. There the rails we have are 1 21/32'' and subrails 1 5/8'', for a first table, I will glue a 1/8'' hardwood plywood underneath and I will also add 2 bolts per rail , it requires drilling the slates but I will do it. This will certainly add rigidity, eventually we want to modify the metal corners and sides to install pockets that will be flush, currently the pockets protrude above the surface. With this height and this added solidity and a perfect height of the cushion noses we should have a not so bad result I dare believe. What would be the best nose height with 1 3/4'' of subrail, I can install the cushions very precisely this is not a problem for me.
 
It must have something to do with the strength of the rail. There the rails we have are 1 21/32'' and subrails 1 5/8'', for a first table, I will glue a 1/8'' hardwood plywood underneath and I will also add 2 bolts per rail , it requires drilling the slates but I will do it. This will certainly add rigidity, eventually we want to modify the metal corners and sides to install pockets that will be flush, currently the pockets protrude above the surface. With this height and this added solidity and a perfect height of the cushion noses we should have a not so bad result I dare believe. What would be the best nose height with 1 3/4'' of subrail, I can install the cushions very precisely this is not a problem for me.
You can't use 1 3/4" subrails, unless you want to make the rails play like red label Diamonds. 1 11/16" is the thickest you can have.
 
It must have something to do with the strength of the rail. There the rails we have are 1 21/32'' and subrails 1 5/8'', for a first table, I will glue a 1/8'' hardwood plywood underneath and I will also add 2 bolts per rail , it requires drilling the slates but I will do it. This will certainly add rigidity, eventually we want to modify the metal corners and sides to install pockets that will be flush, currently the pockets protrude above the surface. With this height and this added solidity and a perfect height of the cushion noses we should have a not so bad result I dare believe. What would be the best nose height with 1 3/4'' of subrail, I can install the cushions very precisely this is not a problem for me.
1 5/8" thick subrails need K66 cushions.
 
We modified a table temporarily without changing the cushions, so with 3/8'' sanded beveled 50A facings, I placed the corner angles at 140 degrees and 4 7/8'' wide and the sides at 101.5 degrees and 5 1/4'' wide, the result is very good, all the players like it, the only thing I find is that the balls tend to bounce a little too much with hard shots, that tells me that with new cushions and the right degrees and 3/16'' 60A facings it will be perfect.

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