Coring a forearm and leaving it empty in an attempt at moving the balance point

[DeeDeeCues]

Sorry to sidetrack this somewhat, but this is just the thing that somewhat puzzles me as to that line of McDermott cues with their adjustable weight and balancing system. The whole basic butt section is hollow. Wonder if they are using some form of inner tube for strength or stability? If not, ya wonder how thet outer core holds up. Somehow they have figured it out as there is a lifetime warranty.

It's pretty clear that they use a carbon fiber core from the first paragraph where they say that they use a carbon fiber core.

 

[muskyed]

Sorry, I watched the video a few days back and was just thinking about this now. I took a look at those cues, and funny, for my liking, the less priced ones were the most desirable. Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[Mensabum]

Well, I really appreciate everyone’s honest replies regarding my desire to reduce the weight evenly by 1 to 1.5 oz on my new Shane Gibson 59.5” 20 3/8 oz Cue, and after practicing with and playing in a couple league nights, just having a “straight Cue” puts a smile on my face, so for now, I’ll just learn to live with it! That said, I do notice that the shafts (1- 4 oz. 12.7mm 29.75” Maple, 1- 3.9 oz. 12.8mm 29.75” Keilwood, both with 1/2“ Tiger Sabre ferrules) each have a taper which expands just after the Natural Pivot Point, which are 12” and 12.5” respectively from the Tip. As such, if I use a closed bridge for a longer medium-strong shot, my bridge happens to fall right at that spot and I have to release my index finger, which is just awkward! Even worse if I happen to bridge, god forbid, at 13” where my closed bridge caused me to blatantly miss a shot!

So my question now is, in an effort at further modifying what I have to enable my being able to use a closed bridge, I know I could perhaps have that taper extended from 12” to 14-15” from the Tip, but my concern is by doing so, that this would cause for the NPP to unfortunately move further back? As many others who go for LD, it’s often overlooked just how drastically far back that NPP moves (15” to as far as 20” for a Revo!). This requires one to completely change from using more Backhand English to primarily using Front Hand English/Negative Backhand English, something I would rather not have to conform to! So if I were to taper an additional 2-4 inches, I would prefer to attempt counteracting any rearward movement of NPP! I‘m thinking by using a longer, perhaps slightly heavier, ferrule (1” Ivory?) that it may have a desired effect of counteracting this “rearward movement of NPP”. Any thoughts?

I must be an idiot bcuz I don't understand why you have to release your pinkie finger??
I have huge hands, so if this is a smaller hand thing, please explain. Thanks!!

 

[Blueball]

I said I have to release my “Index” finger, not “pinkie” finger as the shaft thickens right behind my closed bridge hand at the 12” Pivot Point. So if I were to have a long fast shot, then upon release of the Cue, my closed bridge is forced open, or if it’s slightly further back, then with it’s being closed, it effects the path of the cue ball due to either my finger not releasing thus causing a jerked motion or even if I do intentionally release, that alone can effect the precise aim. Sure I can use an open bridge, and I do a lot of the time, but I like a Closed Bridge when using English.

I must be an idiot bcuz I don't understand why you have to release your pinkie finger??
I have huge hands, so if this is a smaller hand thing, please explain. Thanks!

 

[Chili Palmer]

I said I have to release my “Index” finger, not “pinkie” finger as the shaft thickens right behind my closed bridge hand at the 12” Pivot Point. So if I were to have a long fast shot, then upon release of the Cue, my closed bridge is forced open, or if it’s slightly further back, then with it’s being closed, it effects the path of the cue ball due to either my finger not releasing thus causing a jerked motion or even if I do intentionally release, that alone can effect the precise aim. Sure I can use an open bridge, and I do a lot of the time, but I like a Closed Bridge when using English.

I experience the same issue with a more conical shaped shaft, which is why I prefer an extended pro-taper, 12-14"?

 

[Hard Knock Cues]

I experience the same issue with a more conical shaped shaft, which is why I prefer an extended pro-taper, 12-14"?

You also have said you like a whippy shaft if I remember correctly.

I'm just trying to learn different stroke types.

If someone is not comfortable with a long whippy taper then I would think shortening your bridge would allow the room to stroke through without the widening of the shaft coming into play.

 

[Chili Palmer]

You also have said you like a whippy shaft if I remember correctly.

I'm just trying to learn different stroke types.

If someone is not comfortable with a long whippy taper then I would think shortening your bridge would allow the room to stroke through without the widening of the shaft coming into play.

Correct, I prefer a whippy shaft and I'm pretty sure that's why a thicker a shaft affects my play so much like the other poster. It simply doesn't slide through my hand as easily as an extended pro-taper. Personally, I've been playing too long and am set in my ways so I can't see myself changing my bridge length, pretty sure that would screw me up as much as a pause in my backstroke. New players though could absolutely adjust bridge length, as long as that's what works for them.

I use bar cues quite a bit and step 3 (after tip size/shape and weight) of looking for one is sliding it through my hand to see how it feels. If a thick shaft is all they have I can deal with it, just drives me nuts so I will use an open bridge more. In certain circumstances I've also noticed I will rotate my fingers so the stick is sliding on the edge of my finger nail (usually with sticky house cues) and that leaves a larger opening, think open bridge with a loop over it, so the shaft has more room.

 

[Hard Knock Cues]

Correct, I prefer a whippy shaft and I'm pretty sure that's why a thicker a shaft affects my play so much like the other poster. It simply doesn't slide through my hand as easily as an extended pro-taper. Personally, I've been playing too long and am set in my ways so I can't see myself changing my bridge length, pretty sure that would screw me up as much as a pause in my backstroke. New players though could absolutely adjust bridge length, as long as that's what works for them.

I use bar cues quite a bit and step 3 (after tip size/shape and weight) of looking for one is sliding it through my hand to see how it feels. If a thick shaft is all they have I can deal with it, just drives me nuts so I will use an open bridge more. In certain circumstances I've also noticed I will rotate my fingers so the stick is sliding on the edge of my finger nail (usually with sticky house cues) and that leaves a larger opening, think open bridge with a loop over it, so the shaft has more room.

I can understand, makes me want to make another shaft for my cue(which I made) so I can experiment some. I started with a 10" taper and have increased it to 12". Feels good so I don't want to alter it and have regrets.

 

[Chili Palmer]

I can understand, makes me want to make another shaft for my cue(which I made) so I can experiment some. I started with a 10" taper and have increased it to 12". Feels good so I don't want to alter it and have regrets.

I'm the same way with the cue that started this thread. I just put a new wrap on it and I really like the look of it so I want to start playing with it more but not only is it too forward balanced the shaft is pretty thick and I don't want to spin it down and re-taper it, it's the only stock Huebler shaft I own and don't want to modify it. Of course, I did just get some green pearlescent for a different cue and it seems to be the same as this cue so was thinking about making a new shaft for it. Other projects have priority though.

EDIT: I have an old valley shaft I've been thinking about using, I think I'll give that a go, that way I don't have to wait while I spin down my other shaft blanks.

 

[Hard Knock Cues]

I'm the same way with the cue that started this thread. I just put a new wrap on it and I really like the look of it so I want to start playing with it more but not only is it too forward balanced the shaft is pretty thick and I don't want to spin it down and re-taper it, it's the only stock Huebler shaft I own and don't want to modify it. Of course, I did just get some green pearlescent for a different cue and it seems to be the same as this cue so was thinking about making a new shaft for it. Other projects have priority though.

Good idea to preserve the original shaft, especially since you can make your own.

Priority is important, even if it's not what we want to do

EDIT: I have an old valley shaft I've been thinking about using, I think I'll give that a go, that way I don't have to wait while I spin down my other shaft blanks.

Go for it!

 

[Mensabum]

I said I have to release my “Index” finger, not “pinkie” finger as the shaft thickens right behind my closed bridge hand at the 12” Pivot Point. So if I were to have a long fast shot, then upon release of the Cue, my closed bridge is forced open, or if it’s slightly further back, then with it’s being closed, it effects the path of the cue ball due to either my finger not releasing thus causing a jerked motion or even if I do intentionally release, that alone can effect the precise aim. Sure I can use an open bridge, and I do a lot of the time, but I like a Closed Bridge when using English.

Yep. I'm an idiot. Lol. Can't even read a post correctly anymore. I need a keeper.