Make sure you make him sign a waiver.Sounds more like an eval experiment than a project! Ya know, make some chips and dust and see what happens
Coring a forearm and leaving it empty in an attempt at moving the balance point
- Thread starter Chili Palmer
- Start date
That was my original thought but to make any real difference I would have to core it a bit to large for my liking as the core would get too close to the SS collar and wouldn't leave much original wood for the threads of the collar. Actually, I originally thought of going deep and plugging it with basswood then add a shorter plug on top of that for the pin.
LOL, I can't remember right now, but I do know it's about 1.5" forward of any of the cues I like. 18" to 19.5" maybe? I'll have to remeasure it.
Regarding the stress point and leaving it empty, that worried me at first but I figure if they can do it with a 1/2" diameter shaft that is used for breaking, it would work in this location.
Agreed, I was originally thinking of a .500" hole but then I realized how little of the original forearm would be left. That's when I decided to look into using the 5/16" boring bar, which is what I need for the pin, and drilling deep and leaving it empty. That's how this thread was started.
Any cues I make are 3/8" pins, my favorite cue I play with is a Huebler but IMHO, it's not a great looking cue (#3 in the link above) so I'm trying to modify this Huebler so I can sell the other one. I also have an old bar cue I'm going to convert and it will have a 3/8" pin, which will match the current bar cue I converted, and use for breaking, which also has a 3/8" pin. And, I play with #6 in the link above quite a bit, which also has a 3/8" pin.
I'd rather chop these to sneakies.
Ditto. In my link above I have already converted #8, I'll try to post a pic later, and I have gathered everything I need for both cues above #11. The one on the left is mine and the one on the right is a friends. Somewhere I have all the specs for the Huebler I love playing with, but don't really like the looks of, and with any luck, I will get that bar cue to match those specs, if that happens then it could become my main playing cue - that will actually be attempted before I mess with the Huebler mentioned in this thread. The favorite joint pin thread is what got me motivated to start this thread. That will be my first attempt at re-tapering a cue to match a shaft. The pics aren't great but the grain in that cue is pretty awesome, lots of dark/black lines that stand out. It's a good looking stick.
Wouldn't that buzz?
LOL
I don't know, that's why I'm asking if anyone has done it before
I'll take any input you're willing to give.
We install joint screws without glue voids at the bottom.I don't know, that's why I'm asking if anyone has done it before
That's why we make the epoxy pop .
You can't remove a weight bolt without damaging the finish? If you need some pointers, I would be happy to help. You can remove the existing bolt, drill and tap, and add whatever ridiculous slug you want back there to add weight
Here's some free advice. Buy a soldering iron that only heats at the tip. Let it heat the bolt for a few minutes, unscrew the bolt. Rubber grip gloves will let you get the chutzpah needed without hurting the finish.
If you don't know how to find a soldering iron like that, I can Google it for you for $5
That is all just common sense, which probably escapes a guy who seriously uses the phrase "eat a dick", but hopefully you can figure it out
Hard Knock Cues
Well-known member
Basswood came to my mind also, but don't think it's going to do much for you in the end. You could always replace the ss collar with something lighter but then again you're changing the original design and will change the feel.
You have your work cut out for you. Partial cores can be dangerous, if you could thread some part of it, it would be more secure.I don't know, that's why I'm asking if anyone has done it before
Your definately outside the conventional box.
I still wish you good luck.
You never answered my question - are you a cue maker? If so, show me your work and I'll decide for myself if I should trust your suggestions.
And again, why would add weight to a cue that is already 2oz too heavy for my liking. It should take simple comprehension to understand the physics of that.
EDIT: I have a natural slip stroke/stroke slip (on the forward stroke the cue slides in my hand) and the weight of the cue DRASTICALLY affects how I play. If it's too heavy I will overpower the CB, if it's too light, I can't get the minute actions and will under hit the CB, what I have found is 17.5 to 18.5 is the natural weigh for for me. Also, if there is too much weight on my bridge hand I also tend to over hit the CB.
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What sucks is, if I change that collar it would probably solve 95% of the issue but I like the collar and don't want to change it, hence, here we are.
I think what I'm going to start with is the shaft re-taper and pin replacement to see how those two things affect the weight/balance. If it's close enough I may just leave it. If not, I'll re-visit the coring/plugging so see if that would be worth it.
I bet that will hit great.
I hadn't thought about the threading part, I don't have a tap that long but did think about stepping the end of the core/plug. I don't think a small core (5/16" or smaller) would affect it too much but a 1/2 core may affect the strength of the cue where the bottom of the core contacts the original forum.
Thanks for the input.
Given I don't like cues that "hit a ton" the lighter wood in the middle of the cue would actually benefit the feel of the hit for my preferences. A more dense wood does not soak up the vibrations of the hit and lighter wood would absorb it. It took me a while to figure out I don't like playing with cues that are made of dense wood, those are generally the one's that hit a ton.
Ok.
At this point, I say, just do it.
But, my money says you won't.
It's always easier to postulate some work.
It's the working that's the tough part.