10ft Table Question

Flakeandrun

Flakeandrun

Well-known member
Have a few cash games lined up on a nice diamond 10ft while people are in town for this tourney. Playing some 10 ball for a nice slice of cheese. Love playing on the table, but have a question.
I have a very consistent 10ball break on a 9ft table. The Standard balls in the side, shot on the 1. Placing the CB just off dead centre, and going at them about 75% power.
On the 10ft table, those usual balls don’t drop. I’m more likely to get corners of the rack (2 or 3 ball) around the table into corner pockets, or the 1 in a top corner - Regardless of whether I max the power or not. Is it simply a case of working the speed out, or is there a something else?
Got a couple days to figure it out.
 
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Flakeandrun said:
Have a few cash games lined up on a nice diamond 10ft while people are in town for this tourney. Playing some 10 ball for a nice slice of cheese. Love playing on the table, but have a question.
I have a very consistent 10ball break on a 9ft table. The Standard balls in the side, shot on the 1. Placing the CB just off dead centre, and going at them about 75% power.
On the 10ft table, those usual balls don’t drop. I’m more likely to get corners of the rack (2 or 3 ball) around the table into corner pockets, or the 1 in a top corner - Regardless of whether I max the power or not. Is it simply a case of working the speed out, or is there a something else?
Got a couple days to figure it out.
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I imagine you’ll get limited feedback, as the number of players here that have much experience playing on a 10 footer, especially playing and breaking 10-ball is likely very few.
 
I have no experience on a 10 foot table, but I would suggest you play around with your Q ball placement
 
I have a 10 ft Diamond. Normally my game is 9 ball. With the old style racking, 1 ball on the spot, the wing ball is wired to the corner breaking from the edges of the head string, same as a 9 ft. So I would only imagine 10 ball break should be the same
 
Smutzc said:
I have a 10 ft Diamond. Normally my game is 9 ball. With the old style racking, 1 ball on the spot, the wing ball is wired to the corner breaking from the edges of the head string, same as a 9 ft. So I would only imagine 10 ball break should be the same
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Generally, the 10-ball break is completely different than the 9-ball break. With no restrictions, most pros break 9-ball from close to the side cushions whereas for 10-ball the cue ball is placed closer to the center of the headstring.
 
Why waste your time getting proficient on a 10ft? Hardly any around(at least in the US) and the only tourn. are the Bigfoots. Practice/play on the table(s) you're most likely to encounter. The layouts/patterns/distances are so different on a 10ft that playing on one, while fun/challenging, is not going to do much if anything for your 9ft game much less a 7ft. My $.02 nothing more.
 
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ChrisinNC said:
Generally, the 10-ball break is completely different than the 9-ball break. With no restrictions, most pros break 9-ball from close to the side cushions whereas for 10-ball the cue ball is placed closer to the center of the headstring.
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Yeah, I was more or less trying to say, dimensionally, if the 9 ball break works the same from 9 foot to a 10 foot, I would assume the technique used to break 10 ball would work from a 9 ft to a 10 ft
 
Smutzc said:
I have a 10 ft Diamond. Normally my game is 9 ball. With the old style racking, 1 ball on the spot, the wing ball is wired to the corner breaking from the edges of the head string, same as a 9 ft. So I would only imagine 10 ball break should be the same
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Spent yesterday trying to figure it out, which is what prompted my question. I like how it plays, more space and so it feels like more wiggle room position wise.
Just couldn’t get the break working and it frustrated me a little, as I quite fancy my 10ball break on a 9ft - on this table I am making the 1,2 and 3 sporadically, as described in the initial post, rather than squeezing the usual one or two balls in the center with a shot on the one. Just wanted to know if there was any rhyme or reason to it.

garczar said:
Why waste your time getting proficient on a 10ft?
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Not a waste of time, invited to a few money games on it, with players I’d not normally get a chance to play. But you’re right, I should watch some Bigfoot matches on YouTube.
axejunkie said:
I am of no help here but did ponder recently how many 10 foot Diamonds exist. Enjoy and good luck, would like to clod the rails on one someday!
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it’s a beautiful thing, will post a photo of her tomorrow. Got two more days to get a bit of practice on her.
 
Smutzc said:
Yeah, I was more or less trying to say, dimensionally, if the 9 ball break works the same from 9 foot to a 10 foot, I would assume the technique used to break 10 ball would work from a 9 ft to a 10 ft
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I think the extra length makes the balls not wired to the middle, but maybe it’s a speed thing. Tomorrow I’ll figure it out. Thanks for sharing.
 
garczar said:
Why waste your time getting proficient on a 10ft? Hardly any around(at least in the US) and the only tourn. are the Bigfoots. Practice/play on the table(s) you're most likely to encounter. The layouts/patterns/distances are so different on a 10ft that playing on one, while fun/challenging, is not going to do much if anything for your 9ft game much less a 7ft. My $.02 nothing more.
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I played quite a bit better on the 9' after playing on my 10' table. I'd recommend it to anyone who has the chance.
 
I guess I'm like you, I couldn't make a ball on the break on my 10' playing 10 ball. I quit playing the game completely because of that.
 
Try a half tip lower on CB with same speed and angle and see if the two balls come out longer for the side pockets. If you can’t get a half tip then try a slight elevation with butt. , cue butt 😬
 
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axejunkie said:
I've watched quite a bit of the Bigfoot tournaments and it definitely seems like there are fewer successful breaks than on a 9 foot. I don't have data to back that up though.
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Dr. Dave has tabulated some of the stats from many of my stats threads. Here is his table for 10-Ball, and each entry shows the size of the table:

For a quick estimate of successful breaks on 10-footers vs. 9-footers, I just calculated the mean of that table's 17 entries for 10-footers and 27 entries for 9-footers. The result was about 59% on 10-footers and 58% on 9-footers. These means are different from what you would get as the actual successful break rate from dividing the total number of successful breaks for all of those events by the total number of games. Nor did I do anything in the calculation to take account of different pocket sizes, different types of racks, who was racking, the quality of the field, or anything else. So consider the results quick and dirty. But a quick conclusion would be that the rate of successful breaks by top pros for 10-Ball may be roughly the same on 10-footers as on 9-footers.
 
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Generally, the wing balls (9-ball) on a 9 foot table are dead from an edge of break box break; and generally run long on a 10 foot table.

This has to do with the geometry of the rack (being constant) and the added length of the 10 foot table (head-spot to end rail), and the wing balls leaving the rack on a trajectory (mot equal to 45º, a little greater) intercepting the end rail close to the corner pockets but not directly into them. That same trajectory drops on 9 foot tables, and almost drops on 8-foot tables caressing the long rail at the pocket opening.

So, now that we have established that the geometry is slightly different based on the balls staying constant, the pocket openings staying constant and the lengths growing with table size; What happens is that one alters the point of impact on 1-ball by about 1mm until this table startd dropping wing balls.

10-ball will have the same geometry problems, and rather similar solutions of altering point of impact (but only if you have a 10-ball break working on a 9 foot table.)
 
Flakeandrun said:
Have a few cash games lined up on a nice diamond 10ft while people are in town for this tourney. Playing some 10 ball for a nice slice of cheese. Love playing on the table, but have a question.
I have a very consistent 10ball break on a 9ft table. The Standard balls in the side, shot on the 1. Placing the CB just off dead centre, and going at them about 75% power.
On the 10ft table, those usual balls don’t drop. I’m more likely to get corners of the rack (2 or 3 ball) around the table into corner pockets, or the 1 in a top corner - Regardless of whether I max the power or not. Is it simply a case of working the speed out, or is there a something else?
Got a couple days to figure it out.
Click to expand...
I usually go a diamond off center to the right and hit the rack full w low right. Keeps them from going long. Hit it good. Firm.
 
MitchAlsup said:
Generally, the wing balls (9-ball) on a 9 foot table are dead from an edge of break box break; and generally run long on a 10 foot table.

This has to do with the geometry of the rack (being constant) and the added length of the 10 foot table (head-spot to end rail), and the wing balls leaving the rack on a trajectory (mot equal to 45º, a little greater) intercepting the end rail close to the corner pockets but not directly into them. That same trajectory drops on 9 foot tables, and almost drops on 8-foot tables caressing the long rail at the pocket opening.

So, now that we have established that the geometry is slightly different based on the balls staying constant, the pocket openings staying constant and the lengths growing with table size; What happens is that one alters the point of impact on 1-ball by about 1mm until this table startd dropping wing balls.

10-ball will have the same geometry problems, and rather similar solutions of altering point of impact (but only if you have a 10-ball break working on a 9 foot table.)
Click to expand...
As the wing balls set 11% further from the pockets on a 10’ table, the pockets are essentially 11% tighter, which is one reason it is harder to make balls on the break on a 10’ table.
 
Flakeandrun said:
Have a few cash games lined up on a nice diamond 10ft while people are in town for this tourney. Playing some 10 ball for a nice slice of cheese. Love playing on the table, but have a question.
I have a very consistent 10ball break on a 9ft table. The Standard balls in the side, shot on the 1. Placing the CB just off dead centre, and going at them about 75% power.
On the 10ft table, those usual balls don’t drop. I’m more likely to get corners of the rack (2 or 3 ball) around the table into corner pockets, or the 1 in a top corner - Regardless of whether I max the power or not. Is it simply a case of working the speed out, or is there a something else?
Got a couple days to figure it out.
Click to expand...
Every table plays/breaks different! Vary where you place the cue ball until you find a good spot that gives you better results. Earl used to do exactly this when warming up for a match, shooting break shots and moving the cue ball around until he found his "sweet" spot.
 
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