Offset taper measurement

[SSDiver2112]

When doing a taper with an offset tail stock, what is the proper measurement for the overall length?

The center points go a distance into the wood. Is the measurement the actual length of the piece or is it the actual distance between the points of the centers?

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Say you want a 400 offset taper you're going to move the tail only 200
1236-836 example Measure both ends and adjust from there if necessary.
Make sure you start with the lathe at zero-zero on both ends before moving the tail or the numbers will be skewed.
Unless your center points are a half inch deep on both ends it's not going to make a whole lot of difference.
If you are offsetting the tail for your taper you're better off to have smaller 60 degree holes on both ends.
The larger the center hole the more the piece wants fight being crooked between centers.
Having rounded ball centers on each end will help solve this problem.

 

[SSDiver2112]

Say you want a 400 offset taper you're going to move the tail only 200
1236-836 example Measure both ends and adjust from there if necessary.
Make sure you're start with the lathe at zero-zero on both ends before moving the tail or the numbers will be skewed.
Unless your center points are a half inch deep on both ends it's not going to make a whole lot of difference.
If you are offsetting the tail for your taper you're better off to have smaller 60 degree holes on both ends.
The larger the center hole the more the piece wants fight being crooked between centers.
Having rounded ball centers on each end will help solve this problem.

Ok thanks, they are an average 1/8” each end. I do use a small 60 degree hole. I made a spreadsheet to calculate the offset.

 

[JoeyInCali]

.222 is correct for 32.25.
You basically have run of the mill .0138" taper per inch.
Kinda thin in the middle, that's why old school had 1.260+ bottom or compound taper.

 

[SSDiver2112]

.222 is correct for 32.25.
You basically have run of the mill .0138" taper per inch.
Kinda thin in the middle, that's why old school had 1.260+ bottom or compound taper.

The guy wanted me to match the specs of the Cuetec cue he likes to play with, so it is thinner than normal.

His joint was even smaller at around 0.800” but I told him it would be 0.850” for this cue. He was ok with that.

 

[aphelps1]

Oops accidentally hit send.

His joint was even smaller at around 0.800” but I told him it would be 0.850” for this cue. He was ok with that.

.050 is quite a bit. You could always cut it with the tailstock recentered to closer to .800. Cut to around .805 and sand to match.

Alan

 

[DeeDeeCues]

.050 is quite a bit. You could always cut it with the tailstock recentered to closer to .800. Cut to around .805 and sand to match.

Alan

0.800 is a tiny joint. I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with the durability.

 

[SSDiver2112]

.050 is quite a bit. You could always cut it with the tailstock recentered to closer to .800. Cut to around .805 and sand to match.

Alan

It is, but my tooling is set for a joint size of .850 final. He is aware of that and as long as I get the weight and balance of the cue correct the diameter difference is close then it is ok.

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

0.800 is a tiny joint. I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with the durability.

I did a rebuild on a very old cue that had a .780 joint with a wooden pin in the shaft. The ivory joint on the butt and the wood under it was split. (imagine that) I encased the wood with phenolic and still had room to sleeve some ivory over it.
I was actually surprised how well the cue felt hitting balls after the make over.
Durability? The customer was happy and it should outlast me!

 

[j2pac]

0.800 is a tiny joint. I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with the durability.

It's essentially the older Cuetec "legacy" joint diameter. I've a owned a few without any trouble or concerns with regards to durability. The issue becomes finding shafts to match.