White dots in the epoxy finish

I use a super slow UV resistant surfboard epoxy, it flows out and the only issues I have are bits of dust. I need better dust collection. I sand it out and then super glue. Its super durable, I have one drunken knucklehead customer that manages to ding up his cue while shooting lights out (Waco Kid) but all other cues seem to hold up beautifully.
 
Cyclone said:
I use a super slow UV resistant surfboard epoxy, it flows out and the only issues I have are bits of dust. I need better dust collection. I sand it out and then super glue. Its super durable, I have one drunken knucklehead customer that manages to ding up his cue while shooting lights out (Waco Kid) but all other cues seem to hold up beautifully.
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Pretty sure I got the epoxy figured out. I was waiting until I did the second cue to see if I didn’t just get lucky on the first. I’ll post in more detail soon. Still having the issue with the Solarez but after speaking with the company I will try again.

I’ve watched videos of cuemakers just slapping it on and it came out fine. Skill, experience, magic, I don’t know.
 
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So far so good on the epoxy. I have done three cues with great results. Two of them are Ebony which really show the flaws.

I mix the epoxy and put the cup in the vacuum jar. This is on a candle warmer to warm the epoxy as I apply the vacuum for about 5 minutes. Then I apply it normally, smooth it out and hit it with the heat gun.

I will update with my Solarez results soon.

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I had a very similar issue with polycrylic trying to add a layer of UV protection on certain woods. I would apply it and about 20 minutes later these tiny white dots would appears. I believe it has something to do with the humidity in the air as it was raining outside that day.

I've used it on dry days without issue, but it still caught me off guard since my process is always the same. This probably adds zero value to your issue but I thought it was worth mentioning.
 
Almost forgot I promised an update.

After speaking with Solarez, they recommended I use their air release drops in addition to the same steps I used on the epoxy. Just one or two drops mixed in with the Solarez is all it takes. I had a small issue with the Ebony cue I was working on but not as bad as previously. This cue I sanded back and started fresh, and everything went nice and smooth. I think it came out great and restored my confidence a bit.

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SSDiver2112 said:
Almost forgot I promised an update.

After speaking with Solarez, they recommended I use their air release drops in addition to the same steps I used on the epoxy. just one or two drops mixed in with the epoxy is all it takes. I had a small issue with the Ebony cue I was working on but not as bad as previously. This cue I sanded back and started fresh, and everything went nice and smooth. I think it came out great and restored my confidence a bit.

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What brand of epoxy did you add the Solarez Air release drops to?
 
JoeyInCali said:
Try a small bottle of BSI Finish Cure.
1 to 1 mix.
Heat mix before stirring for some 10 seconds with a hair dryer . Not heat gun as it gets really hot.
I stick the sticks inside my heat cabinet at around 85* for a few minutes.
Let it cool down a bit but still warm to the touch.
Apply the warmed mix with a playing card then hit it with your gloved index finger pushing end to end for penetration.
I've never used blow torch.
I am not fond of Max products. Sorry.
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I am nearly out of the Max I was using and decided to try out the BSI Finish Cure you suggested. Do you use this for everything or finish only and use something else for internal glueing?
 
SSDiver2112 said:
I am nearly out of the Max I was using and decided to try out the BSI Finish Cure you suggested. Do you use this for everything or finish only and use something else for internal glueing?
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Mostly for finish.
But, I use it sometimes for threaded parts.
I thicken it with silica though.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Mostly for finish.
But, I use it sometimes for threaded parts.
I thicken it with silica though.
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Thanks for the BSI recommendation. Sorry I was still a bit skeptical. Did some experimenting with it first. The BSI did have a slight yellowish tint compared to the Max epoxy. I tried it on different scraps to see it on different materials. One example below shows it is really indistinguishable on the wood.

I put some on a joint protector. Redheart with Elforyn inlays. The wood looks nice, and the white inlay is still white. A tiny bit more viscus but flowed out much smoother than the Max does. Not having to spin the lathe for 4-6 hours per coat is nice too. Very pleased so far. We'll see how the sanding goes when I get to that stage.

Thanks again.

Max left <---> BSI right
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A little late to the party, but have you tried "nuking" the epoxy for about 20-25 seconds in the microwave?
It makes a huge difference in the viscosity of the epoxy and how it flows.
 
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