Traditional wood shafts making comeback?

So my honest question is why...? Is there some shot in the game that you run across that requires an additional 15% of power that you can't seem to generate with the Z3...?

Personally I don't find a struggle generating power with my old Z2 or the 11.6mm wx900 I play with during game play.
When need very hard shot it is easier to keep your stroke mechanics from falling apart. It is hard to shoot very hard and be accurate.
 
A 15% increase in power won't replace a fast stroke when needed, like when a power draw is needed. It's not a magic wand...
It will work better on slower tables on regular speed shots.
It'll be a nightmare on fast tables with jumpy cushions, and it will take time to learn to control it. (I play on such tables, really jumpy cushions that return very short)

I really find the most advantageous thing about CF is its durability, consistency and low maintenance, which I do really appreciate, and I guess that a travelling pro does as well, if not more.
 
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A 15% increase in power won't replace a fast stroke when needed, like when a power draw is needed. It's not a magic wand...
It will work better on slower tables on regular speed shots.
It'll be a nightmare on fast tables with jumpy cushions, and it will take time to learn to control it. (I play on such tables, really jumpy cushions that return very short)

I really find the most advantageous thing about CF is its durability, consistency and low maintenance, which I do really appreciate, and I guess that a travelling pro does as well, if not more.
I know. I have very good power shot already. I just noticed when i played 3-cushion with wood shaft and CF that power shots your stroke fall apart more often than CF. It is just lil bit easier. Just something that is hard to get any better other way..
 
Best feeling cue I have ever played with was my Timmy Scruggs. Steel joint piloted 5/16 14. Standard shafts with ivory ferrules. Ooof... still pull it off the wall and hit balls with it on occasion...

Deflects like a MFer, but feels awesome LOL.
You learned how to make balls even w the deflection. Doesn't have to be an enemy like so many players seem to view it as.
 
That would be nice. I bought a maple schon shaft with my new schon and hated it, but I bought an old ex era schon with schon shafts from 1993 and absolutely love it. That slow grown maple definitely hits different
I enjoy the maintenance of maple. Gives me something to do. Otherwise that time could be wasted on silly things like trying to be more tolerant of others.😂
 
I enjoy the maintenance of maple. Gives me something to do. Otherwise that time could be wasted on silly things like trying to be more tolerant of others.😂
I used to be like that 20 years ago. Today, I really dont want to deal with it. I still have a box full of shaft maintenance products...
Now I'm waiting for a good synthetic tip that will hold it's shape and grab chalk without scuffing forever 🙃
Really, all I want is to play carefree.
 
Interesting.

Personally, I find it better to be near maxed out and hitting it firmer is better than lighten up your stroke to compensate for the extra energy.

It's like having a big club in golf just to hit it softly. I like to find that perfect combo where I can hit max. I don't like to hit the ball slow because I factor the tables at my pool hall have breaks in them. I rather send the ball straight into the pocket.

I was taught to shoot at the ball and no poke at the ball.
I was told by a very well known instructor I was playing with that my pocketing speed was 'Firm.' 😂
 
So my honest question is why...? Is there some shot in the game that you run across that requires an additional 15% of power that you can't seem to generate with the Z3...?

Personally I don't find a struggle generating power with my old Z2 or the 11.6mm wx900 I play with during game play.
Alcohol on league nights and all that unnecessary extra power on bar boxes... Get the women and children off the field!!😂
 
I used to be like that 20 years ago. Today, I really dont want to deal with it. I still have a box full of shaft maintenance products...
Now I'm waiting for a good synthetic tip that will hold it's shape and grab chalk without scuffing forever 🙃
Really, all I want is to play carefree.
Try bulletproof.
 
Play with what feels good. If you can really play (have good fundamentals) you can switch between shafts pretty easily and still play at a certain level. Everything deflects to some degree. That isn't a concern. From there, it's just a matter of what feels good. When you are adjusting to a new shaft...and you miss, you'll see why (because you're not moving on the shot or jumping up) and your brain will adjust pretty quickly to start aiming correctly.

I've had cues from Southwest to Schon....tried, 314s to REVO...but I recently bought an entry level Meucci with a pro-shaft (and whatever tip comes on it), and I absolutely love how it feels. I couldn't believe it. That is my daily player. It's inexpensive, I play good with it, and because of the price, it's not "precious" in regard to dings, etc. No worries. Just my .02.
I like the term "entry level" addressing a pool stick. All this talk about technology and deflection really is not all that important relative to technique. Obviously I'm not the first to say that here. For perspective, I once beat the world one weekend using a Players jump break cue that I put a playing top on. My normal cue wasn't available so I just played with that. Paid like $89 for it.

Of course, that weekend the world had been purged of pros, but nevertheless....
 
I like the term "entry level" addressing a pool stick. All this talk about technology and deflection really is not all that important relative to technique. Obviously I'm not the first to say that here. For perspective, I once beat the world one weekend using a Players jump break cue that I put a playing top on. My normal cue wasn't available so I just played with that. Paid like $89 for it.

Of course, that weekend the world had been purged of pros, but nevertheless....
If you can't grab one off the wall and take care of biz, this stuff don't apply and you shouldn't concern yourself with it. That being said, even tho we can play with anything, most of those lower end cues feel dead in my hands. Less feedback than CF. Just dead. I like a cue that lets me know what's going on on the front end. I'll take care of the back accordingly.😂
 
Does any other cuemaker make a hollowed-out wood shaft? There are many companies making hollowed-out wood shafts but there is a carbon-fiber rod inside.

Does Predator have a figure or photo showing the hollowed-out shaft?
Yes, a few. KUH 'Fuhjin' and 'Raijin' (one is composed like 314 of multiple wood layers, one is a hollowed solid maple). I had a 'Fuhjin' - it taught me just how much LD is not for me. It led me into my 'can I have a hit with your cue?' phase of testing... like 4138268310437 cues...

there are several other hollowed out or other 'tech' applied wood shafts. They're all a gimmick, like throwing shit at the wall and seeing what sticks...
 
KUH 'Fuhjin' and 'Raijin' (one is composed like 314 of multiple wood layers, one is a hollowed solid maple)
Japanese shafts:
Cored shafts Fuhjin Keijin.jpg
 
When need very hard shot it is easier to keep your stroke mechanics from falling apart. It is hard to shoot very hard and be accurate.
Of course... again though, I wonder how often that extreme pops up.

I know I'm not the player you are, but even I can rip a ball pretty damn hard without things breaking down. I can't imagine a shot I'd play within a game that requires more than I can muster, with accuracy.
 
Yes, a few. KUH 'Fuhjin' and 'Raijin' (one is composed like 314 of multiple wood layers, one is a hollowed solid maple). I had a 'Fuhjin' - it taught me just how much LD is not for me. It led me into my 'can I have a hit with your cue?' phase of testing... like 4138268310437 cues...

there are several other hollowed out or other 'tech' applied wood shafts. They're all a gimmick, like throwing shit at the wall and seeing what sticks...
If my exchange math holds up, they're approx $375 and $480 apiece. If you check these out be sure to read the reviews!! You'll get a kick out of their terminology.
 
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