4-6 point cues with colored veneers and linen wraps are my favorite

thats the way ive had most of my cues made except with a black and a white hoppe(rambo) ring instead of the longer butt cap sleeve.
 
maha said:
thats the way ive had most of my cues made except with a black and a white hoppe(rambo) ring instead of the longer butt cap sleeve.
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My cue is at the top.

I had it made to resemble the bottom cue. It is a Titlist conversion made by George Balabushka.

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that was also rambos style he was first with it. he also did the small two rings. like on a hoppe cue.
i have a couple like yours as well. one is a balabuska ebony with leather wrap

when house cues were on the wall titliest i used to buy them from the house for 5 to 8 bucks depending.. and give them to gene balner to make ones just exactly like yours.
20 to 25 bucks back then. 7 or 10 for a 2nd shaft. palmer then started making them himself and called it the number 4 in one of his early catalogs.
 
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How in the F are we on a billiards forum and none of you have ANY IDEA how sharp points are made? Im dumbfounded by the stupidity on here. Just WOW.

I've been drinking all night and this is the most ignorantly amazing thing I've ever seen. There's actually guys on here that have been posting for years that are absolutely clueless.
 
middleofnowhere said:
Billy Stroud showed me how he would finish the rounded point with a razor knife to create a sharp point. Pretty easy actually. Then put in the inlayed point. You could not tell when it was done that it was not a splice unless you look closely.

The way to tell is at the pointed end in the point. On a splice each venner is a little different as it comes to a point due to the taper.
On an inlayed point they are unchanged.and the same.
As the cue is tapered the spliced point gets shorter. Inlayed points stay the same length as the cue is tapered. That is why they line up so perfectly, they are inlays. Spliced points if done correctly will line up perfectly as well.

I once refinished a Joss East cue and found the tips of the points were painted or inked on to make them come out even. The outside venner was black so this was almost undetectable.

On inlays in Ebony black tinted epoxy can be used to give the appearance of a more perfect fit. Tricks can be used.
I was at the BCA show once and picked up a Richard Black cue and took out my magnifer. He grabbed the cue from my hand and said "A cue must be examined at arms length with the naked eye".
He was probably right. A cue can look perfect from a small distance. Few cues could probably stand up to being examined with a loupe.
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All of my guys can stand full scrutiny of a loupe, I've seen examples of very well known makers use marker. Should be run out of the business
 
fastone371 said:
The Richard Black story is funny. I'm guessing he knows exactly where all of the non perfect areas (I hesitate to call them flaws) are on the cues he builds but most normal people will probably never notice. Its the same with the racecar chassis' I build, I know every area that I don't consider "perfect" but the owners never or rarely notice, sometimes even when I point something out.
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He literally builds the worst cues on the planet inlay wise, great design, but I can assure you, you don't need magnification to see the gaps. I've been saying this forever
 
This is my 6 point (well 12 if you count the reverse points) Filipino made cue and it has some of the tightest point work I've ever seen. all points are equally spaced and spot on length wise, its even straight!



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