secret to long table bank shots
- Thread starter judochoke
- Start date
Plus learn Diamond System.
My method of banking and kicking (for 1 rail shots) is the 2 to 1 method. Its explained in this:
It is step 3 in the video.
But the same thing works for banking. I will find the closest natural 2 to 1 line (as if i was kicking the object ball into the desired pocket). If the ball is on the natural line then I use this line. If the ball is not on the line then I need to adjust. I find the closest natural line and see how far left/right of the line the ball is. If the object ball is 4 inches left of the natural line (from center of line to center of ball) then I want to adjust 2 inches left on the rail with my aim. So why 2 inches? The system is 2 to 1, and whatever distance we go on the 1st rail we only go 1/2 the distance on the 2nd rail.
The keys to all banking:
Speed - what speed is natural table speed for that table? Firm speed shortens the bank
Spin - NO spin on the cue ball
Aiming - if you are off an inch on your aim you will miss by 2 inches at the pocket
Collision Induced Throw - if you are shooting a cut shot for the bank, the object ball will not go exactly where you are aiming due to CIT. AND it will pick up a little spin. If you are cutting across the line (cue ball going towards the shot line - crossover bank) the shot will naturally want to go long/wide. If you are cutting away from the shot line (cue ball going away from the shot line) the shot will naturally want to go short.
Most players would just use a little spin to counter act the CIT but then you are also getting spin that you need to adjust for.
What do you do if the bank is not anywhere close to one of the natural 2 to 1 lines? You can use spot on the wall for 1 rail banks/kicks. Going from one corner pocket - through 2nd diamond on opposite short rail - to intended corner pocket. You aim through that 2nd diamond and find a spot - something 12-15 feet past the table. Use this reference as your new aim point.
But the same thing works for banking. I will find the closest natural 2 to 1 line (as if i was kicking the object ball into the desired pocket). If the ball is on the natural line then I use this line. If the ball is not on the line then I need to adjust. I find the closest natural line and see how far left/right of the line the ball is. If the object ball is 4 inches left of the natural line (from center of line to center of ball) then I want to adjust 2 inches left on the rail with my aim. So why 2 inches? The system is 2 to 1, and whatever distance we go on the 1st rail we only go 1/2 the distance on the 2nd rail.
The keys to all banking:
Speed - what speed is natural table speed for that table? Firm speed shortens the bank
Spin - NO spin on the cue ball
Aiming - if you are off an inch on your aim you will miss by 2 inches at the pocket
Collision Induced Throw - if you are shooting a cut shot for the bank, the object ball will not go exactly where you are aiming due to CIT. AND it will pick up a little spin. If you are cutting across the line (cue ball going towards the shot line - crossover bank) the shot will naturally want to go long/wide. If you are cutting away from the shot line (cue ball going away from the shot line) the shot will naturally want to go short.
Most players would just use a little spin to counter act the CIT but then you are also getting spin that you need to adjust for.
What do you do if the bank is not anywhere close to one of the natural 2 to 1 lines? You can use spot on the wall for 1 rail banks/kicks. Going from one corner pocket - through 2nd diamond on opposite short rail - to intended corner pocket. You aim through that 2nd diamond and find a spot - something 12-15 feet past the table. Use this reference as your new aim point.
I think the sooner you can realize there is not only 1 perfected method for all banks the better....There are multiple methods for banking and pieces of each can be combined for your personal best method....I want to know "ALL" the methodsWhat was never mentioned (that I saw) in this entire thread is the speed of the bank makes a difference...hard narrows...soft widens......so unless you are hitting medium firm on all banks...you can throw out the "perfect angle" methods.......However you can use them all like tools in a tool box to help you get your feel.........There are multiple upon multiple methods for banks........Sometimes for a long rail bank..(or even short rail) simply hitting the OB square in the face with english to throw it into the pocket is all you need.....Sometimes you can line up the intended pocket side edges of CB/OB face to face square (forgetting the pocket or angle) and pivot your cue to center and it puts you on the perfect bank......Sometimes hard with "inside" english to shorten a bank that would naturally go wide....sometimes you need english to get the CB out of the way of a double kiss.......what "shape" do you need with the CB could influence the bank method....(especially one pocket where a lazy CB could be a sell out) .......so many banking variables.
Quite possibly....for banks....the actual 1 proven system for banks is the........HAMB method.
CajunPopeye
Member
For me it's practice, practice, practice. I don't generally use diamonds for one rail banks. It's like muscle memory. I can bank a long shot easier than making a cut most times. In the early 90s I'd play bank the 8 with a friend to make the games last longer. Banking became easier than cutting for some shots. I'm just a barroom player with no fargo rate and only a few tournaments in my history. I feel, sometimes, I can "see" the bank automatically.
It is not the speed itself that shortens/lengthens banks. Many players don't understand this. It is the spin on the ball hitting the rail that changes the bank angle. How much follow does it have going into the bank?
In some situations, hitting the ball hard versus soft will change the bank angle a lot. In other situations, the speed has no effect.