Help with thoughts on the price range that you might charge for this 8 Point (Thuya Burl, into Ebony) cue, if you were to build something similar?

vintagecollectibles831

Well-known member
I have this custom pool cue, that was made by an unknown (unknown to anyone out there so far, that I have showed this cue to) pool cue maker, from Pinedale Wyoming, named Scott Grossman.

I have no idea if the cue maker still builds cues, and have been unable to find any contact info for him.

Anyways, the cue is fairly straight, but it is in pretty poor cosmetic condition, and it does not even appear to come with its original shaft. No idea who made the shaft, lol.

I understand that this question is probably completely pointless, but I am curious how much the average cue maker might charge to build cue cue similar to this one?

And, other then then horrible condition of the finish, do you have any thoughts about this cue?

I would love to send it off to get it refinished, and maybe have a new shaft made for it, that matches the ringwork, but I am really broke, and no idea when I would ever have the money to be able to have the work done to make this cue beautiful again.

But, question is, would it even be worth the money that ut might cost to have all that work done? Refinish, and new shaft?

Just curious what a new cue like this might cost from a cue maker to build.

I really appreciate any thoughts.

Thanks a lot for your time.
 

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You're probably looking at a few grand to the sky's the limit depending on the cue maker. I imagine you could find a number of cue makers who can make something similar in the 3k range.

I would not refinish a "fairly straight" cue unless you're just in love with it. That is unless its just a warped shaft and the butt is straight. Then just have a new shaft made along with the refinish so it matches up nicely.
 
To the original poster:
Forum rules say not to discuss pricing here. If you like the cue then most any cuemaker would give your cue a refinish and put it back to new condition.

Hope that helps

Alan
That was 16 years ago. Not saying it doesn’t apply but gauging overall market price isn’t the same as directly asking a cue maker to publicly post a quote.
 
You say "fairly straight" what does that really mean ?
Am I right in thinking that you want to refinish the cue to sell it and that's why you want to know the value?

Well, it rolls like 98% straight, in my opinion. Overall, it looks very straight, when rolled, together with the non original shaft. There is no noticeable roll out when rolled together with the shaft, and the tip remains flat on the felt of the table, when rolled together with the butt. And, I bet after a refinish, the butt would roll perfect.

When I spin the butt on my pocket lathe / straightness checker, I can see about a hair of movement, and I really can't see the joint pin move at all. Leads me to believe that the butt is like 99% straight.

I believe that it is the really old, and uneven finish, that is throwing the roll off, by a hair, when rolled on a pool table..

This cue is not warped though. Not in my opinion. A hair of movement is probably normal for a very old cue too, which I bet this cue is (very old).

Anyways, yeah, the cue rolls very straight with the non original shaft. Just not absolutely perfect.

It really just needs a refinish, and a new shaft made. Probably $500, I am guessing, minimum for the cost of those two things that it needs.

I understand that it was a pointless question, but was just curious what something like this might cost to replace.

Oh, and yeah, would I probably end up losing money if I were to put the money into a refinish, and a new (matching shaft)?

I personally love the look of the cue though, and imagine it would be really beautiful after a refinish.

I was just curious how much something like this may have cost from the cue maker, or how much something like this might cost (depending on who makes it) to have made again.

Thanks a lot for any thoughts.
 
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To the original poster:
Forum rules say not to discuss pricing here. If you like the cue then most any cuemaker would give your cue a refinish and put it back to new condition.

Hope that helps

Alan

My question was not for any certain cue maker. It was more of a question on the average price range that a cue maker might charge to build something like this. I was not directly asking anyone in particular here how much they would personally charge. More of just an idea, on a price range, to build something like this, from the average cue maker out there. Just out of curiosity. I understand that the question is pretty pointless though, but I was still just curious.
 
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You're probably looking at a few grand to the sky's the limit depending on the cue maker. I imagine you could find a number of cue makers who can make something similar in the 3k range.

I would not refinish a "fairly straight" cue unless you're just in love with it. That is unless its just a warped shaft and the butt is straight. Then just have a new shaft made along with the refinish so it matches up nicely.

Hi, thanks so much for your reply, and your thoughts about how much the replacement value might be, to replace something like this.

I do not think the butt is warped. I believe that the really old finish is just throwing it off by a hair. When I spin the butt on my pocket lathe / straightness checker, I can see a hair of movement, but I can't see the joint pin move at all. The joint pin remains perfectly level during the spin. When the cue is rolled together with the shaft, the cue also looks like 99% straight, when rolled. Anyways, I do not know, but I get the feeling the a hair of uneveness in the refinish might be throwing the roll off by a hair, but I do not really know. Guess it needs to be spun on a big cue makers lathe, to be certain.

Thanks a lot for your reply.
 
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Hi, thanks so much for your reply, and your thoughts about how much the replacement value might be, to replace something like this.

I do not think the butt is warped. I believe that the really old finish is just throwing it off by a hair. When I spin the butt on my pocket lathe / straightness checker, I can see a hair of movement, but I can't see the joint pin move at all. The joint pin remains perfectly level during the spin. When the cue is rolled together with the shaft, the cue also looks like 99% straight, when rolled. Anyways, I do not know, but I get the feeling the a hair of uneveness in the refinish might be throwing the roll off by a hair, but I do not really know. Guess it needs to be spun on a big cue makers lathe, to be certain.

Thanks a lot for your reply.
A few thousandth could be corrected on a refinish.
 
You say "fairly straight" what does that really mean ?
Am I right in thinking that you want to refinish the cue to sell it and that's why you want to know the value?

Hi, I did this video today, but it is not very good, lol. Old camera phone. Maybe it will hopefully give an idea of how straight the butt is. Spun it on these pocket lathe rollers that I have.


So, I see it is not perfect, but it does not look bad either. To me, it only looks a tiny bit off, in the spin. I do not know. Hoping that maybe it is just old / uneven finish that is throwing it off a little. Thanks for any thoughts though.
 
A few thousandth could be corrected on a refinish.

Hi, this video kind of sucks, but it is the only thing I have to test straightness (these pocket lathe rollers). Anyways, does the movement that is shown appear to be more then a few thousandths? Thanks a lot. My camera also really kind of sucks, lol, because it is on a pretty old phone. So, it gets blurry during its attempts to auto focus, lol.

 
Hi, this video kind of sucks, but it is the only thing I have to test straightness (these pocket lathe rollers). Anyways, does the movement that is shown appear to be more then a few thousandths? Thanks a lot. My camera also really kind of sucks, lol, because it is on a pretty old phone. So, it gets blurry during its attempts to auto focus, lol.

I’d have to see in person and put a dial indicator on it but that doesn’t look to be terribly warped.

Up to you on what you want to invest but it seems like that would be fine to refinish.

Whoever does the refinish can certainly advise you before proceeding.
 
That was 16 years ago. Not saying it doesn’t apply but gauging overall market price isn’t the same as directly asking a cue maker to publicly post a quote.

My question was not for any certain cue maker. It was more of a question on the average price range that a cue maker might charge to build something like this. I was not directly asking anyone in particular here how much they would personally charge. More of just an idea, on a price range, to build something like this, from the average cue maker out there. Just out of curiosity. I understand that the question is pretty pointless though, but I was still just curious.
I understand, but pricing can vary widely from maker to maker. Asking what a certain cue would be worth is fine though. I think you have a great looking cue that would be well worth a refinish.

Alan
 
I understand, but pricing can vary widely from maker to maker. Asking what a certain cue would be worth is fine though. I think you have a great looking cue that would be well worth a refinish.

Alan

Thanks. I was just curious on getting an idea of an average. I always like to ask the cue maker who built the cue, but in this case, I just could not find any contact info for him.

I also wonder if doing points like this is a very hard skill set for a cue maker to learn. I really love the way the high / low points are done. They were recut, to blend in with each other, and I do not know, but it appears he did a pretty good job with the points. I really love the Maple veneers in the long points too.

Just bummed that I could not learn more about the cue maker. I guess there are a lot of unknown cue makers out there.
 
I understand, but pricing can vary widely from maker to maker. Asking what a certain cue would be worth is fine though. I think you have a great looking cue that would be well worth a refinish.

Alan
You’re right. It can vary. Which is why I said a few grand to the skies the limit. I don’t think his question was egregious at all or in any violation of the imaginary rights this forum has to gatekeep individual cue makers pricing.

He’s just trying to get an idea.

We should definitely revisit the rules of this forum. It’s been almost two decades. Things are a lot different now.
 
I also wonder if doing points like this is a very hard skill set for a cue maker to learn. I really love the way the high / low points are done. They were recut, to blend in with each other, and I do not know, but it appears he did a pretty good job with the points. I really love the Maple veneers in the long points too.
They appear to be recut v-points. Not difficult, but it does require an accurate and precise setup for consistent results.
Heavy duty equipment is likely a requirement, like a milling machine and highly repeatable tapering setups.
 
Thats a beautiful cue I'm guessing you are inquiring of a value to remake ? Does this cue have issues that would require a rebuild or just make a whole new cue? Maybe, i missed something , however i didn't see anything referencing to why you posted this inquiry. Is this cue is pristine condition and you are merely trying to place a value on it.
 
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They appear to be recut v-points. Not difficult, but it does require an accurate and precise setup for consistent results.
Heavy duty equipment is likely a requirement, like a milling machine and highly repeatable tapering setups.

Sounds really interesting. Thanks for your reply.

It would be neat to see a video of a cue maker doing points like this.

I wonder how long cue makers have been doing these types of 8 point cues, or any type of points that needed recuts in the points. They just look really neat to me. I just wonder how old this cue might be.

Anyways, I would love to get the cue refinished. I imagine it would look really beautiful, with a high quality refinish on it.

Here is a video, that I recently did, showing the cue, and showing how bad the condition is. Seems like it was really abused, but I do not know.


I actually really do not know what the woods are, but I assume Ebony, and some type of a Burl, with Maple veneers, in the longer points. Love the look the Maple veneers give the cue.
 
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