Cue Repair, Shipping Disaster
- Thread starter Chopdoc
- Start date
Hard to say without holding something like this in hand.
From the pictures.....to me, it appears to be more than just an adhesive issue that has released all of the point pieces.
The good news is the adhesive wasn't very good which allowed the 4 points to release like they did, in one piece.
It appears that there was significant side pressure at the A that has caused the damage.
I believe it will entail a little more than just finding the correct adhesive to be used.
Fun project if you can find a qualified repair tech willing to put humpty dumpty back together again!
From the pictures.....to me, it appears to be more than just an adhesive issue that has released all of the point pieces.
The good news is the adhesive wasn't very good which allowed the 4 points to release like they did, in one piece.
It appears that there was significant side pressure at the A that has caused the damage.
I believe it will entail a little more than just finding the correct adhesive to be used.
Fun project if you can find a qualified repair tech willing to put humpty dumpty back together again!
Yes, of course it is more than finding the right adhesive. It does require expert repair.Hard to say without holding something like this in hand.
From the pictures.....to me, it appears to be more than just an adhesive issue that has released all of the point pieces.
The good news is the adhesive wasn't very good which allowed the 4 points to release like they did, in one piece.
It appears that there was significant side pressure at the A that has caused the damage.
I believe it will entail a little more than just finding the correct adhesive to be used.
Fun project if you can find a qualified repair tech willing to put humpty dumpty back together again!
Yes, it was side pressure.
I can't tell if the A joint pin bent, of course it needs to be inspected in a lathe.
To me it is.
I have $0 in the cue. That's part of what makes it worth it.
Also, it has a very nice BEM forearm. It's a really nice example of this model.
Another part is that I am a serious National and Gandy collector. My recently started history thread. Scroll down for pictures. LINK
Since it is complete, and I believe the damage is all at the glue lines, it can be done basically cosmetically perfect, and structurally sound.
If nothing else, I got a free shaft, which is perfect, and matches my other HC-140, which is an ebony Titlist conversion.
Honestly I believe that is the least of the worries. The damage to the forearm where the pin goes into the forearm is what really needs to be addressed.
And then there's the construction technique that was previously used would need to be modified.
Yup!
I was waiting for someone to see that! I figured a cue maker would pretty much right away. When you see how it broke, that's where you would look first if you understand the weak point.
The forearm split. Just a tiny little bit, but that is the disaster part. Can't just screw this thing back together.
There would be several ways. Glue it clamp it, screw it back together. Maybe not wise to try.
Glue it, clamp it, bore it, fully core it, drill and tap it, would be another idea.
Glue it, clamp it, partially bore it, plug it, drill and tap it, would be another idea.
I am sure a cue maker knows other ways, but certainly I would want the most expert repair. Obviously one needs to have it physically in front of them to say anything for sure.
Thank you so much for responding, I appreciate your expertise.
If you glue it as is and then screw the screw back in, there's a very good chance the wood split in the exact same place again. Drilling in and plugging is the best solition imo. But that obviously complicated things. You would need to recut the point slots.
This would be the approach best used I believe.
Glue the forearm and points all back together. (not as easy as it sounds to get things lined back up during the gluing process)
Bore it and plug it maybe 3-4 inches up inside and assemble the A back together.
Personally I would not put the A back together as a flat face connection.
I agree. Just gluing it up would be substandard.
As you say, plugging or coring requires recutting the points in the plug or core, which has to be precise, especially because the points are already built and need to fit back in, without changing the dimensions of the cue.
In a fresh build that assembly is done, then you keep your centers as you turn it down to keep the points even. More to it I know.
Since this is a rebuild you can't turn it down after assembly of the points. It has to be exactly right, no room for error.
More challenges that casual observation reveals.
I truly appreciate your observations.
Amen
Just like building except you create and add an -A- joint.
Yes, strong temptation to improve that A joint.
I am not against that. It would not alter the appearance. Perhaps the plug could be doweled into the handle. Far superior mechanical joint.
For that reason I think this is truely a "rebuild" case, not just repair.
Cosmetically it is a restoration, but the construction is a rebuild.
It's one of those jobs that more than likely will ramp up in complexity during the process and since everything is at final dimensions there's no margin of error. It's not an uncommon thing, but with multiple X factors and only one chance to get it right it's one of those jobs you rehearse in your mind several times before starting the job.
How dimensionally accurate the cue is will certainly be a key factor and determine how to best go about this.
You mentioned a Guy earlier in your posts that could handle this, Ryan Thween. He repaired 2 cues that I thought were lost causes. You couldn't see the repairs when completed without a magnifying glass. Brian.
