Question about sanding down a shaft

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Is the shaft pro taper or conical taper? You are going to bottleneck a pro taper shaft if you sand on it very much. Plus there is a critical point where the shaft goes from OK to totally unplayable.

It can take a lot of sanding to take out scratches from coarse sandpaper. Use new paper but hit it a quick lick on a piece of 2x4 or other scrap to knock off the major offenders waiting to gouge your shaft.

For some people sanding down a shaft is no big deal at all. For some there is considerable risk. A cue repairman will probably take it down for under fifty dollars and they will take down ferrule, tip, and all.

Hu
 
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ShootingArts said:
Is the shaft pro taper or conical taper? You are going to bottleneck a pro taper shaft if you sand on it very much. Plus there is a critical point where the shaft goes from OK to totally unplayable.

It can take a lot of sanding to take out scratches from coarse sandpaper. Use new paper but hit it a quick lick on a piece of 2x4 or other scrap to knock off the major offenders waiting to gouge your shaft.

For some people sanding down a shaft is no big deal at all. For some there is considerable risk. A cue repairman will probably take it down for under fifty dollars and they will take down ferrule, tip, and all.

Hu
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Agree with you that with knowledge and skill, you can do this yourself. But, with an 11 count poster, I don't think the OP is in a position to do this.
 
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WildWing said:
Agree with you that with knowledge and skill, you can do this yourself. But, with an 11 count poster, I don't think the OP is in a position to do this.
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Post count means little. I know world class woodturners that do work that would boggle your mind. They have never heard of AZB and probably never will. However, I agree with you that the OP's knowledge is questionable just based on what he is asking.

When deciding if he can do it himself we need to know what the taper is now, what does he want to change it to, and can he figure out a way to spin the shaft?

A chuckle, there is video of Corey Dueul(SP?) taking down his shaft in the middle of a major match. From the amount of dust flying he musta been using about forty grit paper! He was stroking like he was trying to start a fire and doing it nonstop when he wasn't shooting. That shaft should have been about the size of a toothpick when he was done with it! I think he did it during at least two matches. I would have complained to the TD if playing him. A major distraction if facing his chair shooting.

Hu
 
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drewstaff711 said:
What type/grit of sandpaper would you use to bring a shaft a little? Is this something that I can do myself?
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Several problems::

The typical Ferule has only a few (dozen) thousandths of thickness.

You are going to need some way to measure the taper and preserve same.

You are going to want the shaft circular to within a few thousands at all pints along the shaft

If the shaft is bent in any way, you will want the bend corrected.

These are not things one can do with sand-paper--regardless of the grit size.
 
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WildWing said:
Unless you have a micrometer, and are very good at using it, I wouldn't recommend it. Refinishing a shaft, with 400 grit, followed by Q papers, and Q slick is fine, but I have a feeling you're thinking about taking off more. Unless you have a lot of skill, I would recommend a cue repairman.

All the best,
WW
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Thank guys - I will have to get a pro to do it for me. My cousin actually has a guy. Thank for your input!!
 
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MitchAlsup said:
Several problems::

The typical Ferule has only a few (dozen) thousandths of thickness.

You are going to need some way to measure the taper and preserve same.

You are going to want the shaft circular to within a few thousands at all pints along the shaft

If the shaft is bent in any way, you will want the bend corrected.

These are not things one can do with sand-paper--regardless of the grit size.
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Thank guys - I will have to get a pro to do it for me. My cousin actually has a guy. Thank
 
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MitchAlsup said:
Several problems::

The typical Ferule has only a few (dozen) thousandths of thickness.

You are going to need some way to measure the taper and preserve same.

You are going to want the shaft circular to within a few thousands at all pints along the shaft

If the shaft is bent in any way, you will want the bend corrected.

These are not things one can do with sand-paper--regardless of the grit size.
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Correct, and there is another huge problem with a do it yourself shaft reduce with sandpaper. The grain. The top grain, that is, the tightly spaced grain goes down less with sandpaper, than the wide grain, where there is visible open space in the wood.

Again, if you're very good with a micrometer, and you pay attention closely, it's possible to do it. I do it, but it's painstaking work. You have to work about twice as hard on the end grain as you do on the side grain to keep it circular.

Anybody trying it, get some practice on something cheap first. Don't do it on an expensive shaft.

All the best,
WW
 
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Black-Balled said:
The previous folks responded as though you are looking to change the thickness of the shaft. Is that the reason?

I recently got a shaft that had some weird coating on it and I removed it by hand. For that, i think a home job is ok.
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No problem with just removing a coating. That's easy as pie. I think the OP was, as you said, trying to reduce the diameter.

All the best,
WW
 
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I only have cheap cues. $200 one off sneaky tops. (haven't touched the shafts) All except the three newest ones were re-tapered by hand. I settled on 150 grit for the last 3 or 4 done as the quickest, safest cut. The trick is working the cue vertically using LIGHT strokes that traverse the length of the offending zone. Keep rotating the cue - use something on the floor to keep the cue from creeping off. I'm still learning to sync the sanding and spinning. It's not like I get a lot of practice at it.

If you do undertake something like this, figure on an educational experience and go slowly - small steps. There's no undo in this process.
 
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9ball5032 said:
I wouldn't even trust myself to take 1/10 of a millimeter off a shaft to reduce its size.

In 1994-95 I did have a 13mm shaft that after "cleaning" too much with sandpaper went down to 12.5mm. Not good.
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I think all my shafts have 13mm tips give or take. The take part is from re-tipping and dressing. I would add that the front of the cue is always satisfactory and for me, any taper issues start at the back 2/3rds of the shaft especially the last 1/3rd.
 
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