Tip tool shaping question

skor said:
What chalk do you use that is shapping your tip?
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Oh I don't... Prior conversations on AZB about the tips disappearing from chalk use. Funny comment likely only in my mind.

To be on topic. I honestly never shape tips. Use hard tips and they might get touched up once by my cue guy during a shaft cleaning. Just a pick if I find the surface isn't holding chalk.
 
If I'm putting on the tip myself, I use the same #200 sandpaper I used earlier in the process. If I hire a cue guy, he uses a cutting tool in a lathe.

Just fold over the sandpaper, make it a little concave, hold it about 45 degrees, and sand from center to edge (CTE). Rotate the cue slowly as you sand.
 
Bob Jewett said:
If I'm putting on the tip myself, I use the same #200 sandpaper I used earlier in the process. If I hire a cue guy, he uses a cutting tool in a lathe.

Just fold over the sandpaper, make it a little concave, hold it about 45 degrees, and sand from center to edge (CTE). Rotate the cue slowly as you sand.
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Saw what you did there ;)
 
The_JV said:
Oh I don't... Prior conversations on AZB about the tips disappearing from chalk use. Funny comment likely only in my mind.

To be on topic. I honestly never shape tips. Use hard tips and they might get touched up once by my cue guy during a shaft cleaning. Just a pick if I find the surface isn't holding chalk.
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I have a Tiger Everest on my cue thats at least 2 years old now. I have never shaped it since it was installed by my cue guy but I do scuff it up occasionally with my Gator Grip tool.
 
I use the Last4ever tool as a last dressing after Installing tips and I think the surface it leaves is just the perfect texture.
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I've used Willard's for years. Normally with shaft off i brace the joint end on floor and rotate shaft while pushing down on the shaper. Works perfect. In a pinch at the 'hall i have used the full cue 'fire starter' method and that works good too. For more shaping chores i use the Tweeten's metal thing with the supplied sandpaper. For light scuffing i use a cheap('bout 12bux) chinese kamui gator knockoff. works perfect.
 
If you play 2-3 hours a week your tip will last 23 years. It will dry out and fall off before it needs attention.If you put a lot of hours on the table you will need maintenance at some point.

When the tip is shaped and you’re happy it’s just a matter of a little touch up here and there.
I’ve played in my share of events with some of the best in the world participating.
Whether it needs it or not players are cleaning up and performing some sort of maintenance while warming up, between matches, during a match, whenever.
Confidence in your tip performance is a good thing even if the touch up is “minute”.

Everybody has their own way.
I have a few maintenance tools as do most players . Shapers, files, sandpaper, pick, burnisher, etc. I use the tool for what the job calls for and when it calls.

Tip maintenance may be the easiest thing to learn about the game of pool.
Everybody has their own way.
 
SmoothStroke said:
If you play 2-3 hours a week your tip will last 23 years. It will dry out and fall off before it needs attention.If you put a lot of hours on the table you will need maintenance at some point.

When the tip is shaped and you’re happy it’s just a matter of a little touch up here and there.
I’ve played in my share of events with some of the best in the world participating.
Whether it needs it or not players are cleaning up and performing some sort of maintenance while warming up, between matches, during a match, whenever.
Confidence in your tip performance is a good thing even if the touch up is “minute”.

Everybody has their own way.
I have a few maintenance tools as do most players . Shapers, files, sandpaper, pick, burnisher, etc. I use the tool for what the job calls for and when it calls.

Tip maintenance may be the easiest thing to learn about the game of pool.
Everybody has their own way.
Click to expand...
play >20hrs a week and a good quality hard tip can last you 10yrs. I used the 10yr benchmark, because I hit that threshold personally. Everything is relative.

That said, I'm no different when it comes to fiddling with my cue tip. I won't touch it for months normally, but will hit it with a pick before every set in a tournament. Fortunately chasing 'a shape' is something I've managed to avoid.
 
SmoothStroke said:
If you play 2-3 hours a week your tip will last 23 years. It will dry out and fall off before it needs attention.If you put a lot of hours on the table you will need maintenance at some point.

When the tip is shaped and you’re happy it’s just a matter of a little touch up here and there.
I’ve played in my share of events with some of the best in the world participating.
Whether it needs it or not players are cleaning up and performing some sort of maintenance while warming up, between matches, during a match, whenever.
Confidence in your tip performance is a good thing even if the touch up is “minute”.

Everybody has their own way.
I have a few maintenance tools as do most players . Shapers, files, sandpaper, pick, burnisher, etc. I use the tool for what the job calls for and when it calls.

Tip maintenance may be the easiest thing to learn about the game of pool.
Everybody has their own way.
Click to expand...
23yrs??????? Sure it isn't 22 or 24???? ;)
 
The_JV said:
play >20hrs a week and a good quality hard tip can last you 10yrs. I used the 10yr benchmark, because I hit that threshold personally. Everything is relative.

That said, I'm no different when it comes to fiddling with my cue tip. I won't touch it for months normally, but will hit it with a pick before every set in a tournament. Fortunately chasing 'a shape' is something I've managed to avoid.
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They last a long time for sure.
I used a hard tip for years going back to champion hard tips probably still made.

I’ve been playing with black ebony cues 20, 20.5 and 21 ounces, steel joint with rock maple shafts and pre- cat predator shafts for a long time now.
The hard tips ping on my cues and the touch and feel lacks, sounds terrible.

I use original Moori mediums, I am
one with them. lol
The feedback, touch and feel is perfect for me and have a nice thud.
I don’t mind occasional maintenance I’m married with kids.
 
GoldCrown said:
Just my .2... It's not meant to be used that way. And if the shaft drifts off the end it can be scratched/damaged. However get few junkers and try it. Maybe it'll work for you.
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I don't ever plan to lay my Last4Ever tip tool on the floor. I seem to have been born with natural ability to shape my tips with the tips pointing up and the Last4Ever tip tool in my hand. As for scratching the ferrule, I have done that when using the burnisher, and I won't ever try to use the mushroom strip.
 
7stud said:
I don't ever plan to lay my Last4Ever tip tool on the floor. I seem to have been born with natural ability to shape my tips with the tips pointing up and the Last4Ever tip tool in my hand. As for scratching the ferrule, I have done that when using the burnisher, and I won't ever try to use the mushroom strip.
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Try these. Put on ground and spin the shaft like you are trying to get a fire started. Flip it back upright and scuff it some more. It's good to go.
Extreme Pool Cue Tip Tool - 5 in 1 Tip ...
 
A fine grit BRAD tool or a bit of sandpaper formed to a similar shape works great. Most of the new BRAD tools are too rough and too inconsistent in grit to use.

Williard tools go through more tips than any tool I know of. Playing around, I tried to keep a moori II medium to a dime shape. Tip lasted me two weeks and I wasn't shooting daily!

Your tip will form to your shooting style so shaping it close to what you like and letting it find it's own crown shape is best. I thought a dime should be most precise but found that a nickel or a bit flatter works best for me. Years ago a largely flat tip with a rounded edge worked well. One of these days I am going to try that again.

Leave a tip alone and it will settle into a shape. Mess with it all the time and you are the cue mechanic's friend. The tip will never take a set and you will go through them fast!


billiards_watch said:
Try these. Put on ground and spin the shaft like you are trying to get a fire started. Flip it back upright and scuff it some more. It's good to go.
Extreme Pool Cue Tip Tool - 5 in 1 Tip ...
Click to expand...

I could probably get good at that. I put my chalk on the floor and jam my tip in it. Spin with my boot sole until I start seeing smoke. I do that all the time when demonstrating how cool I R.

Hu
 
ShootingArts said:
A fine grit BRAD tool or a bit of sandpaper formed to a similar shape works great. Most of the new BRAD tools are too rough and too inconsistent in grit to use.

Williard tools go through more tips than any tool I know of. Playing around, I tried to keep a moori II medium to a dime shape. Tip lasted me two weeks and I wasn't shooting daily!

Your tip will form to your shooting style so shaping it close to what you like and letting it find it's own crown shape is best. I thought a dime should be most precise but found that a nickel or a bit flatter works best for me. Years ago a largely flat tip with a rounded edge worked well. One of these days I am going to try that again.

Leave a tip alone and it will settle into a shape. Mess with it all the time and you are the cue mechanic's friend. The tip will never take a set and you will go through them fast!




I could probably get good at that. I put my chalk on the floor and jam my tip in it. Spin with my boot sole until I start seeing smoke. I do that all the time when demonstrating how cool I R.

Hu
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I just hold those in my hand and lightly go over the tip taking the glaze off. Haven't had that problem since switching to bulletproof hard/green.
 
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