Restoring a Canadian Gold Crown 1

[gazman100]

Hi all,
So I purchased this Brunswick a while back.
It was just slightly different to the other Gold Crowns that I've worked on.
So after some research and some help from you guys I've come to the conclusion that it's a Canadian table so I'm calling it a
Canadian Gold Crown 1.
To view the original post view the link below.

Thread 'Brunswick pool table identification required'

Mar 19, 2025

Hi all,
I purchased this Brunswick pool table yesterday, pulled it apart and got it it unloaded at my place.
Please find the pic's below at it's pick up location.
It has never been in a pool hall and was owned by an old guy for over 40 years.
It was then purchased as you see it from another guy who owned it for over 10 years until I picked it up yesterday.
This this is a bit of a find.
However I don't believe it's a Gold Crown as some things don't add up.
I have searched high and low for info on this table however I've come up blank, so I would appreciate your thoughts as to what model of...

• gazman100
• Replies: 18
• Forum: Pool Tables and Accessories Reviews

• 

Robertson screws are used throughout the original table build.

I start by removing the old paint using a heat gun and scraper

This table is around 60 years old so it's to be expected to have some repairs.
The ply wood was coming off on the leg pedestals so I bladed it off using a ruler and a sharp blade going beyond damage.

Some of the timber supports were missing so I glued in some new ones.

As you can see you can get a real tidy repair.

As far as paint goes I keep it real simple.
I use a quality water based primer. 1 coat.

Epoxy enamel 3 - 4 coats using a microfiber roller.
This is a single pack epoxy so there's no added hardener just stir and apply.

 

[gazman100]

I always start by painting the underneath and tops of the pedestals and stretcher panels.
I'm doing this inside my living room as my garage is full.

I grabbed some old feet to elevate the leg supports as It's the only way I can work out how to have them nice and stable
during painting.

When the paint has gone off I'll apply some bees wax where the panels join so if I ever need to dissemble the table the
paint won't stick together on either panel.

The frame gets attached using a Stainless Steel hex bolt with a SS washer.
I know you don't see it but it's a nice look.

Now that's a really nice frame. Solid and heavy.

So I purchased a Powder coating kit from Amazon years ago which allows me to do my own Powder coating.
I'd encourage anyone who is a bit handy to have a go as it's pretty basic.
The pic blow shows the adjustable feet coming out of the oven.

In this pic you can really see the metallic effect coming through.
This is the best colour I've found doing corner castings and other areas on the table.
The colour is "Heavy Sliver " with "Clear Vision" as it's clear coat. By Prismatic Powders.

I removed the original timber slate backing as I wasn't happy with the way the slate was not sitting correctly

That is so much better.
19mm finished pine using contact adhesive to glue it down.

 

[gazman100]

This table has only ever had a couple of reclothes so it's a bit of a find.

The Laminate was in really good condition. But it did have a couple of dents here and there so I decided to rip it off.

Surprisingly I was able to get under the Laminate and with a bit of force simply tear it off. No heat was required.

When I purchased the table the owner did tell me that he had the cushions replaced.
He told me that it was delayed for some reason and I straight away knew that installing K55's correctly is a bit of a mission.
So when I bolted the rails down this is the rail height. It's too low.
What to do.

And surprise surprise the playing surface measurement's was incorrect.

I got the angle of the sub rails figured out so I run the rails through the table saw.

I don't muck around with anything else these days so I chose Superspeeds.

I got the cushion height bang on.

 

[gazman100]

At this stage I've duct taped the rubbers to the rails to make sure that I've got everything correct.
The playing area is now 50 inches - 100 inches.

Just checking the rail sights with a jig I made a few tables ago.
Notice that the line at the top lines up with the line below and the sight hole is exact.

Rails are all stripped.
These are in excellent condition, the best rails I've had so far.
Note the sub rail extensions

This Gold Crown had no rail counters so I convinced a guy on Ebay to remove them from the rails he was selling.
I found these extremely hard to come by.

This took a lot of measuring to get right.

I changed out the figure 8 plates for steel insert nuts.
But first I had to remove the figure 8 recess.

Cutting out the blanks.

These took a lot of effort but worth it in the end.

 

[gazman100]

Cutting the Laminate.
Notice the clamped ruler, this is so the Laminate doesn't slide through when cutting.

I'm using Hi strength 3m 90.
I've used this since the very beginning a few years ago.
Once applied the only way to remove the Laminate is to heat it using a heat gun.

Notice how the name plate and the rail sights are all filled.
That's because I can't drill into a void.
So I'll have to redrill everything.
The contact adhesive has now gone off, I then lay some round dowels on top to allow the Lamanite to float on top.
Notice that the rail trim is attached but backed off.
When laying the Lamanite I'll push the laminate to the trim which works as a stop and gives me a slight over hang.

Lamanite applied and glued down.

Name plate is router out.
Sometimes I have to do this a few times to get it perfect.

Drilling the rail sights using a router bit 10mm

I'm using a alloy right angle with 80 grit paper attached to trim off the rail trim edge.

Router out the feather strip trim.
I used to do this by hand until I built a little platform for the router to sit on.

Notice how the rail trim sits nice and tight.
I can't stand seeing gaps between the trim and the Laminate.
With the GC3 the Laminate sit's under the trim so there much easier, however the GC1 sit flush
to the trim so you have to be precise.

 

[gazman100]

Trimming the edges

The rail trims are Anodized so to remove it I use Caustic Soda

Caustic Soda and water in a pipe and the Anodizing fall off.

Buffing the rail trims.
At this point I wished I could powder coat them but I don't have a big enough oven. So I built one.

I got myself a cabinet.
Installed a glass viewing window which came out of a toaster oven

I got an oven from Facebook market place and moved over all of the electrics.
Insulated the oven.
And now I'm able to powder coat those long rail trims.

Demagnetized the button magnets with heat.
When they fall into the tray there done.

At the ball storage end I'm installing insert nuts to support the ball storage.
This is a RKC hack. Thanks Glen.

Skirt brackets get changed out to timber blocks.

 

[gazman100]

Sub rail extension

Applying the decals.
I get these reproduced at the local sign shop

This is a adjustable casting levelling set up.
You adjust the screws which move the casting up or down until you achieve the desired height
It's a really good way to get your corner castings nice an low and even.
This in another RKC hack.

You can see from the pic below how nice you can get your castings to flow across the rails.

With the rail sight hole I have a 3mm hole going through to the bottom of the rail.
This is so if the rail sight goes in crooked or too deep I can push it back out through the bottom with a wire and start again.
Believe me sometimes they don't push in even.

I glue in the rail sights using T rex silicone

Cushion facing.
You may laugh but I finish these off by hand.

Were getting close

Cloth is Simonis 860 "slate" colour

 

[gazman100]

Then one day I actually finished it.

Paint filled name plate

Paint filled score counters.
Note that the rail trim is powder coated

The pic below is a nice clean look.
The rail extensions allow the rubber pockets to tuck in behind the rail extensions.
Notice how the corner castings fit in with the Laminating.

Thanks for viewing.

 

[kitsap]

Outstanding results and great documentation of your journey. Thank you for sharing.

 

[FordSVTCobra]

Looks fantastic. Great job on the write up and detailed pictures.

 

[boogieman]

Great job, thanks for posting the build!

 

[Island Drive]

I restored 7 of em. One of em.
Took a corn blaster and stripped entire frame, took 45 minutes, then 220 then 180 light sand paper and stain to your liking.
The two coats of clear, pool room 3 coats. Here's the beauty of a GC I underlying wood work it's beautiful. The early GC1 had more layers in their aprons than the latter yrs. I was told they were made outta poplar.

 

[Island Drive]

Where's the ball box ? and counters?

 

[Lawnboy77]

Great work! Looks fabulous! Thanks for sharing!

 

[gazman100]

I restored 7 of em. One of em.
Took a corn blaster and stripped entire frame, took 45 minutes, then 220 then 180 light sand paper and stain to your liking.
The two coats of clear, pool room 3 coats. Here's the beauty of a GC I underlying wood work it's beautiful. The early GC1 had more layers in their aprons than the latter yrs. I was told they were made outta poplar.

Wow, that's amazing.