I bought my first carbon fiber shaft (the Jacoby V5 with a dimed 12.1mm tip). I have questions. FIRST POST!!!

A

Abel_Mabel

New member
Hey gang,

I know that this is a little different than a traditional CF shaft, but I was intrigued by the design and the ideologies that went into it. I am having a VERY hard time getting my curve shot to take. I understand it is a smaller tip than a lot of people play with, it isn't 11.8 but I think those are chosen for their extreme english capabilities so this... should... be fine, right? I have an old Viper I use for breaking and I just had it re-tipped (Medium water buffalo), and I can get a better curve shot with it than with the V5, which is very frustrating, since it's a very cheap stick and not a reasonable APA shooting cue compared to the V5.

The tip is the one it came with, and you don't have the option other than to re-tip it yourself or have your local shop do it. I don't want to have to change the tip, and I wonder if perhaps there is some technique that CF/V5 users have in their arsenal that I am lacking, or if I have a shaft that is suboptimal for this particular shot. I am a 4 in APA 9ball and only started leagues this summer, started as a 3 and moved up to a 4 after 6 weeks.

My next issue is the horo tip seems to mushroom fairly easily. I do use too much force occasionally, but not so often that it should mushroom the way I have seen it do (no pictures, sry. I had it nickeled and then it mushroomed and my team captain dimed it without considering).

Thanks for any input and experiences shared,

-Abel Mabel
 
Curve shot? do you mean massé shot? A Massé shot works best very stiff shaft and a larger tip diameter. So if you are playing with a 11.8mm shaft, massé isn't what it's made for.
My question is why do you need to use massé shots all the time? Just work on your speed control, so you don't have to rely on trick shots.
 
To be frank, I don't know what you mean by your curve shot.

If you are literally curving the CB you are using bad technique and should seek some instruction.

And if your tip is mushrooming too much just lop it off and have it replaced with something a little firmer. IOWs, it's not you.

Lou Figueroa
 
Apologies, a swerve shot. Yes, mass'e, but not extreme english like Venom, it's a small swerve around a ball to make contact, for instance, when one gets hooked by an opponent's safety shot. I'm a 4 and don't often get to play against my level; generally my opp is a 5, and occasionally a 6. I get hooked a lot, and often a swerve shot would be a much better leave for the next shot, or the only option due to table constraints (no bank is available, and I would rather swerve than jump). I agree, I do need to continue to work on my basics. This is not in reference to that, though. I would like to be able to do both... It is a valuable concept just as a draw shot is a valuable concept, you just don't use it every time the occasion arises - it is for the times your basics are unavailable as relevant tools.

thanks to everyone who has responded so far, I appreciate it!

@skor: this is an Ultra-Low Deflection shaft; I have had to adjust for the lack of deflection I used to account for in a wooden shaft.
 
I'm not a fan of carbon fiber shafts even after owning and playing with one to give it a fair chance .
My wood shafts aren't smaller than 12.5 mm most are 13 mm or a bit larger .

My suggestion is to set up you're shot and mark where the balls are and practice the shot until you get it figured out , I'd elevate the butt of the cue after chalking the tip very well and a soft shot may just surprise you .
 
The Viper with a decent tip is better than some cues I've used to win small tournaments against strong competition. I wouldn't worry about that.

As far as the swerve and deflection, you have to get used to it. Practice the shots you struggle with and give yourself a years time feel completely confident in it. It may even take less time but be patient with yourself.

Almost all tips mushroom and need reshaping in the begining month or so. Shape it however you want. After that, if you still hate it, just change it to something you like.
 
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bbb said:
your inability to swerve the cue ball is because you are an apa4...jmho
find an instructor to teach you
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This …. You can’t do it because your a 4 and don’t know enough to know your don’t know anything . I’d say to practice it but if your a 4 you should more important shots to be consistent at before you worry about “swerve shots” 😂 good luck
 
Abel,

As others have put more gently, you are trying to fly when you haven't reached a high speed crawl yet. If you spend five to ten percent of your time working on the masse shot and the rest on fundamentals you will be best off. Right now it is like you are trying to pitch major league when you can't throw a baseball fifty feet yet.

Start working on pocketing balls and working on speed and angles for shape with sidespin being a last resort.

Learn the basics and the more advanced techniques will be a natural progression. Try to skip over or not thoroughly learn the basics and the gaps in your pool education will bite you for years to come.

Good Luck and Have Fun!

Hu
 
ShootingArts said:
Abel,

As others have put more gently, you are trying to fly when you haven't reached a high speed crawl yet. If you spend five to ten percent of your time working on the masse shot and the rest on fundamentals you will be best off. Right now it is like you are trying to pitch major league when you can't throw a baseball fifty feet yet.

Start working on pocketing balls and working on speed and angles for shape with sidespin being a last resort.

Learn the basics and the more advanced techniques will be a natural progression. Try to skip over or not thoroughly learn the basics and the gaps in your pool education will bite you for years to come.

Good Luck and Have Fun!

Hu
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Well said Hu 👍
 
Abel_Mabel said:
t. I am having a VERY hard time getting my curve shot to take
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Kim Bye said:
A Massé shot works best very stiff shaft and a larger tip diameter. So if you are playing with a 11.8mm shaft, massé isn't what it's made for.
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Regarding a very stiff shaft --- that's not the 11.8mm Jacoby V5. Here's Jacoby's blurb on it:

Just when you thought the best couldn't get any better, Jacoby Custom Cues brings you the V5 BlaCk Carbon Shaft. The new V5 shaft is slightly more flexible than its predecessor, the V4. This is accomplished by changing the orientation of the fiber material of the carbon tube. This more flexible design creates a uniquely comfortable feel and controlled hit while achieving almost zero deflection. The Jacoby V5 comes standard with a special HORO "Hero" layered tip, engineered solely for Jacoby Custom Cues. ​

Abel_Mabel said:
s the horo tip seems to mushroom fairly easily. I
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I know the Horo tip was "engineered solely for Jacoby Custom Cues" but does it look like any of Horo's other tips?

Hhoro tips.jpg
 
Paul Bell said:
Regarding a very stiff shaft --- that's not the 11.8mm Jacoby V5. Here's Jacoby's blurb on it:

Just when you thought the best couldn't get any better, Jacoby Custom Cues brings you the V5 BlaCk Carbon Shaft. The new V5 shaft is slightly more flexible than its predecessor, the V4. This is accomplished by changing the orientation of the fiber material of the carbon tube. This more flexible design creates a uniquely comfortable feel and controlled hit while achieving almost zero deflection. The Jacoby V5 comes standard with a special HORO "Hero" layered tip, engineered solely for Jacoby Custom Cues. ​


I know the Horo tip was "engineered solely for Jacoby Custom Cues" but does it look like any of Horo's other tips?

View attachment 920221
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That sounds like a lot of marketing jargon..
I make CF shafts and I can tell you that there's no revolutionary way to make a CF shaft, sure you can have different tube thickness and diameter and different ferrule and shaft collar materials, but there's nothing magical out there.
I have been selling Horo for years and I know the owner personally and I have nothing but positive things to say about Horo, but it's certainly not designed especially for Jacoby shafts.
 
I have a Jacoby V5 that's about 12.2mm.

If you're trying to hit a slight massé shot you first have to account for the fact that a carbon shaft doesn't deflect like a wood shaft and when hitting this type of shot many people rely on that deflection to first get them around the impeding ball and then the spin takes and brings it back. Carbon shafts don't deflect like that so you have to start out aiming around the impeding ball and then the spin will still bring it back but you need to start it on a different line to get around the obstacle first. The shaft works just fine for this type of shot and just the other night I had to hit a couple of them in league play to get out of trouble.

The V5 is a great shaft, I'm loving mine. It has a softer and more muted hit compared to most carbon shafts. I played with a Revo before this and I prefer the feel of the Jacoby and find it more predictable, I would have trouble controlling the amount of draw on the Revo for example but not so with my V5.

Can't speak to the tip, I ordered mine with a Kamui black because that is what I had on my V4s and wanted to keep that consistent.
 
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