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Amazing work! Real clean and classy!:thumbup:

Congratulations Mr. Bludworth!

Very excellent workmanship and I bet your jig works great for it's intended purpose. I'll shoot you an email in a day or two. Please post pics when it's in final size.

I may be wrong and you may be right. I believe I see it rather differently. The mitered points look is due to the overlapping of the point woods during recut process, it appears to me that they are not the same as the 45 degree mitered veneer points where they are exactly at the middle but...

Jim, Thanks. How much is Bobcad 23? I saw the list on progecad and it runs to roughly $400.00.

I just received an evaluation copy of progecad 2010 and haven't installed it yet. I believe it's good for 30 days. Anybody got experience of views about it for doing inlay designs? Any info would be great. Thanks

Good Luck!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: It'll e a lot of fun!

Great workmanship and design! As for the maple you mentioned, I believe a thick maple ring was sleeved at the bottom of the points before doing the final recut with the ebony point. This gives a boxed impression (not the mitered type). I believe this is te only way the maple got there:D

I agree. But I guess it would be hard to deviate from that design because of the purpose of having an adjustable one for 30" or so.

That would be a great buy, I doubt though snyonr here would like to part with their Bison 6 jaw

This thread has been sidetracked and I want to chime in while we're in it. What about dipping with regards to finishing? Has anyone discussed it here on AZ?

Dave, i was referring to others threads here on az. My bad.

Goog for you Mickey. Lee, I just want my butts to be exact 29" or whatever length I designed it, specially on a finished one. So whatever mods, I do it on the shaft side.:thumbup:

IMO It's easier to deal with the shaft, rather than a finished butt. Shaft collars and joint collars commonly have different lengths so the margin for adjustment is bigger on the shaft side. Worst case, change the lower part of the ringwork collar and refinish - 4-5" max.

Reface the shaft or the joint collar 'til they line up. How far off is it? Pics would help

Hope to see more of those A-joints. If no pics are available then maybe just a description would do. This is a great forum to learn from the masters, innovators and the experienced and see what works for them. Putting the bickering aside:o hope to see more:smile:

How do you get it down to veneer size and consistent thickness? Bandsaw then drumsander?

Cutting at a slight angle would help. But then, have you checked the contricity of your handle area? A slight variance could cause the wrap to rise at the seam

TAP TAP TAP:thumbup:

It's clear to me now. The threaded part goes in the forearm, and the thick ring at the A-joint supports and gives stability to that area. My question: Is maple that long more prone to warp, because of the length and the different diameter of the two sections? If it does, there's gonna be more...