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thanks dad ! im doing one right now where this will be intentional rather than a cheap fix

some of those guys really let this shit go their head. there's usually 3 sides to bad deal, buyers, sellers & the truth but to suggest he get access to anyone's computer is just fukn rediculous

thank you sir!! i did coat it with sealer , same stuff i use on shafts

they arent under clear ala meucci exposed, flush with surrounding clear

boy oh boy oh boy, brenster made a bad choice using holly in some rings, although i have before without any troubles. but this time, no such luck. epoxy into the end grain turned it funky nasty. looked horrible. wasnt about to tear cues apart so i started thinkin', narrow leather ring over...

i get sol, not JWF ???

what if the labels are under the clearcoat/finish?

i wipe a thin ca coat on my mandrel when i see it starting to disappear, i know i'm close. im like a bull in a chinashop sometimes, i NEED something to slow me down :yeah:

sneak up on it like Brugge says, you'll probably sand thru your finish until you get the hang of it i was spraying finish right over mandrel, but that tied up my mandrel too long. so just made a few delrin "mandrels" .004" oversize. then spray over those. unscrew those, slap on the mandrel for...

a few guys around Chicago used that pin Rick Greshley, Darren Hill, i think Todd Schuler also did probably more

Arnie was always helpful & kind to me when i began building cues back in 2005

mine has the metal gear i think they started using the phenolic gear in the 50's . my other sheldon, 1950's, had one, teeth tore out. bought one from a man named John Knox that worked for Sheldon. sold that lathe , before i ever got it up and running

with a 1" round stainless bar between centers, using an indicator from the side and on top, the only variance i'm getting is about .002" approx. 12" from headstock, from the side. top indicator stays true . i'm assuming most of the work was done at that spot on lathe. at one time they...

:idea2:come to think of it, i could just make a riser out of sheet phenolic. run it thru my drum sander to get my desired thickness

it just hit me i can get where i need to be by bringing tailstock up to my dead center instead of 30" away . if i can get close, i'll make a temporary shim out of sheet phenolic, then adjust to get a final thickness i need for the plate.

backstory lathe is US Army WW2 tailstock is not the original, scavenged from another Sheldon lathe. various shims are under it, it's a mess. want to get a riser plate made. to determine how low it is , without all that crap in there, i can indicate on top of an alignment bar i had made. i got...

i said what??????????????

try contacting Dick Abbott He's the man when it comes to BBC history

you're searching for a Recut fixture. got mine from John Rocker several years ago. not sure who else is making them maybe check with Chris Hightower

thank you very much about all i can do, my options are very limited, considering the equipment i have. or DON'T have :wink: