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Traditionally, 40 years ago, a pro taper was a constant diameter for about 13" back from the ferrule then it opened up. These were fairly rapidly modified to a modified pro-taper which gradually opened up from the ferrule back about 12-16" then opened more quickly back to the joint.

I wasn't clear. I was referring to a butt section that had a portion such as the front section that when placed flush on top of a straight edge would show an arc of light between the tip of the front and the rear of the front. If it was a straight taper there would be no arc or any light at...

It plays great and works as well as any wood we use, it dries well, is stable, dense, finishes easily, and has nice tonal qualities. The one thing it has going against it is its appearance. It's a medium reddish brown wood with very little if any contrasting grain lines. I'll post a picture...

Cue makers use the term parabolic and mudified (not a typo) parabolic taper because it sounds very technical. Until I see someone posting the mathematical formulas they use to generate their curves I am going to guess they arrived at their taper the same way I did. By trial and experimentation...

There are different mahoganies but most all of them have striking grain patterns that need a large surface to show it off, such as a table top or drawer front. A pool cue is awfully small . The nicest mahogany is san domingan or uban mahogany which is heavier by about .15 s.g. than hondouran...

Obviously it's two frogs mating.

I can sell one set with a $5 shipping cost.

It should be fine.

A well made stainless jointed cue will give you the tool that all the major straight pool players used to win their matches. The Miz was adament that stainless cues played better posotion.

So you ordered a guitar and got a banjo and you can't send it back. Really? Wow! You can do a search for feel of stainless joints or phenolic and have enough reading for a day or two.

Buy dead soft sheets in whatever thickness you want. The same applies to round and square wire.

Wait for the 40". It will never be too short while occasionally a 36" lathe will be.

It will work fine but you need to let the wood acclimate to your shop conditions before working with it. I've used an attic before but it was because of a lack of storage space. I was in upstate New York at the time and summers were hot up there but it was always really dry.

The pros play with whatever they personally prefer. Squirt etc. can always be dealt with however they please. They're professionals and they will play with whatever cue will pay them the most, but I'm sure that most of them are in the mid to high 12 mm range.

I don't play that well any more but I can say with absolute certainty that I would prefer it if my opponent always played the carom shot. Personally, from where the balls are diagrammed, the better shot might be stop and go into the second ball on a safety.

If you can get good at pattern play it will carry to other games. A nine ball game can be played with a lot of cue ball movement or if you see a pattern it can be done with pretty much stop shots. As mentioned, find the break shot early and clean up areas.

I'm pretty sure that every serious cue maker in the last 30 years has worked to get his or her cues to sound the way they want them to sound. No matter what you might hear it isn't anything mysterious or hard or secret. Using a wood that doesn't have a ringing sound when struck sharply is...

If you are using silver for inlays, specify dead soft when you buy. It works out better.

Wow, it was about $40 an ounce a few months ago. How high are you expecting?

Players representing themselves well The one player in the last 40 years who really understood business and represented himself well enough for sponsors to spend big bucks was Steve Mizerak with his Miller commercials. Different times to be sure but still he was the only one to do it and it...