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He wasn’t referring to the ferrule; a perfectly ‘straight’ cut of the leather tip - not the ferrule - will tend to expand/mushroom slightly in the first few plays. Tapering the tip ever so slightly results in a perfect tip after a couple hour’s play, and the user doesn’t have to shave the...

Gonna be a lil’ while. I’ve got a few more nuts that I can turn into ferrules... hopefully I’ll get one that’s 14mm or larger. If not... well, it’s an opportunity to learn how to turn a shaft down to 12mm. I’m sure I’ll slaughter a few Lowe’s dowels in the process. (No sense ruining a nice...

A couple more pictures Tagua in the center. Then from left to right: Ivorine-IV Elforyn White Topek Tagua McDermott PVC-II Ivorine-IV, Elforyn White, Tagua, McDermott, Topek, PVC-II The interior of the Tagua is the most luminous; it’s also the smallest.

I decided to give this ‘vegetable ivory’ a try... mostly for the sake of practice and see if it could be done. I saw a few old questions here on AZB where a few asked if it could be done, and figured “learning is fun.” I figure somebody’s search the forum in the future, and might benefit from...

I love your site, and books, Dr. Dave. But this made my head hurt. I’m happy to see it, though. I haven’t had to do math like that in quite some time now. I’m kind of ashamed how much math I’ve forgotten from disuse, but I filled the space with other stuff, so... I’m going to fall back to dark...

Well, I snagged a few dowels, some PVC-II rod, and some cheap tips. Started practicing. Chucking an entire shaft or a one piece cue is a whole different kettle ‘o fish... but chucking & centering is a little easier to practice without damaging something compared to changing ferrules & tips...

Very well put. The spin part only looks like magic until you start doing the math. The math typically results in an overwhelming desire to return to believing in magic, the blacker the better. The stuff isn’t something many would do for fun. It’s a whole lot easier to read Dr. Dave’s articles...

It’s a property that’s got to be intentional. Otherwise, why add the SMACwrap, whose whole purpose is to dampen all vibrations? ... dampening cue vibration is polarizing. Love it or hate it, and fortunately, there’s no wrong answer. I’d describe the feedback of the Defy like feeling a surface...

Off topic and ignorant question: what are “well seasoned woods”, and why do I want them? I have a feeling it doesn’t mean sprinkling with oregano and pepper... Does it refer to woods that have effectively sat on the shelf for a long time, to give it a chance to finish warping (so it won’t warp...

Update time: I set up the balls, took pictures, changed the bulbs from plain bulbs to BR (bulge reflector) floods (110° pattern) Before: visible spots After: The Philips 558031 (BR30) bulbs provide a more even light pattern, and are brighter. Even dimmed to 30%, the pattern is better...

This just sounds interesting: Apparently, some folks at the University of Maryland have worked out how to make wood transparent. The process sounds deceptively simple: take wood, treat it with 30% hydrogen peroxide (note: it’s pretty dangerous at 30%), leave it out in the sun to bleach white...

Doesn’t surprise me. The vibration dampening is likely either love it or hate it for everyone.

Yup. CNC is an amazing tool in the right hands. Becoming “the right hands” is another matter entirely.

And I appreciate your concern. Sadly, the Sun doesn’t flicker and it also triggers migraines.

That power supply means everything. A good bulb will PWM at tens of kHz - way beyond the 60 Hz of an old fluorescent lamp. Much nicer, and well beyond human abilities to see. Our rods & cones have a speed limit, after all. Cheap bulbs are little more than a bunch of full wave bridge...

I’m an electrical engineer, so AC and DC are basically my bread & butter. LED’s - light bulbs or otherwise - only use DC. Light Emitting Diodes have more options in how the circuitry converts AC to DC, but power has to be converted to DC. Fluorescent lights are in practice always AC. (A true...

Their break jump is $117, made by Action, and is here For $7 more, they sell a combo break/jump cue with an additional playing shaft. Which I have & like.

This is the reason I have a couple of dedicated break cues. All of my wall cues are niceish, with varying tip hardnesses. I want my guests to have a dedicated cue for breaking so they don’t damage my wall cues.

The light is set so that it can’t really be higher without being blinding. The bottom lip of the lights is even with my eyes. Good thought, though. I use 5000k 100 w bulbs at present. I’m not convinced switching to 6500k would do much other than be bluer. I’ll probably try painting the shades...

I didn’t miss it. However, I e also said getting a new light is not possible at this time, so it’s not that relevant or helpful. Thanks, though.