Search results

It sure was a nice room. If I recall correctly, it was essentially a shed. However, the owner had converted it to a nice little space. Small kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, and, of course, a beautiful pool table.

There were many different pockets used on the Gold Crown series.

I'm not aware of United making anything other than coin-op barbox tables. That said, it should be a one-piece slate and box cabinet design.

If you're slick, you can retrofit the rails to accept much nicer pockets. These are rubber Gold Crown drop pockets:

Agreed. The price is reasonable, and they are very nice pockets. I install them on every Gold Crown that I refinish and sell.

Disc sander or table saw with a sanding disc setup. However, you don't want to remove any wood from the rails. There is a chance that you cannot properly fix the cushion rubber behind the facing. If that's the case, I would recommend cleaning up the face of the rubber the best that you can...

1. Maybe, but it depends on your fixturing and tooling. If the rail blinds are removable, you can probably get away with keeping most of the cloth on. 2. Looks like a botched job. Sure looks like poor cushion cuts.

It sometimes depends on the model. Most generally, it simply requires swapping out the pockets and removing the return system.

I don't remember the exact construction details, though it disassembles very easily. I've had one in storage for a couple of years.

It breaks down completely, into manageable pieces.

As always Jack, beautiful work. I've tried many times with a miter saw, but I cannot seem to correct the runout on my saw enough. I've torn up a number of cushions, doing trials. About mid-cut, the blade will grab the rubber, and tear things all to hell. I think that I'll have to invest in a...

I use standard self-adhesive sanding discs. I purchase them from McMaster-Carr. I've tried everything from 40-120 grit. I tend to prefer 80 grit. 120 is too fine, and tends to clog with contact cement. 80 will as well, but you need to be careful. You could go with 60 grit, but it leaves a very...

Any 3-piece slate table will cost you more to set up than a single-piece slate table. If you are not bound to any particular style, I might recommend finding a bar table. They can typically be found in 6', 6.5', 7', or 8' lengths. Depending on your location, 7' may be the most common size. Bar...

You could use a miter saw, as some do. However, if your saw has any bit of run-out, or you don't have the rails properly fixtured, you will destroy a cushion, and potentially more. Given my bad luck with the miter saw technique, I prefer to sand the rails, on a table saw. I set up guides and...

Good question... I wish that I knew. Hahaha. Typically, when I do this work, I charge somewhere in the vicinity of $150, depending on what exactly needs to be done. Sounds like a lot, but it's a bit time consuming, and the cost of materials could be as much as $30 (This does not include cloth...

Your thinking is correct. Harder facings will make the pockets a bit more forgiving. Additionally, if you have the ability to sand the ends of the rails, by means of a disk sander, or a table saw setup with a calibration plate and sanding disk, you can correct the angle of the new facing. You...

To add context to your post, you had suggested (based on garzar's post) that the "cushion profile" is the downward angle from the top of the sub-rail to the nose of the cushion. Keep in mind, he was also referring to an installed cushion (mounted to a sub-rail), as he mentioned the changes that...

You would also be incorrect. The cushion "profile" is the actual shape of the cushion, as viewed from its end.

In regards to pocket angles, you can refer to it however you want: downward angle, down draft angle, vertical angle.. It all means the same. I use the following terms for pocket angles: 'lead-in angle' and 'downward angle'. When referring to cushion angle, it's generally referred to as the...

I like using a 12 degree downward angle.