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The sealer I usually use is a home-brew but starts out as the water based Minwax Polycrylic clear satin finish. I thin it and add a little something extra ;). I've also experimented recently with a General Finishes Wood Turner's Finish available from Woodcraft. It's also water based,and works...

I use denatured alcohol and the Eraser,in 2 ways. Most of the work get done with the lathe on,but really dirty shafts get a 2nd treatment. Turn the lathe off and go WITH the grain. For this I use a clean part of the Eraser and rotate often. After all this,the shaft will be completely clean...

The one NYC legend that No one has mentioned to this point as far as 14.1 was the great Mike Eufemia. How could you NOT learn from a guy than ran 200 or more every night for over a DECADE? On slow cloth and probably clay balls no less...Tommy D.

I knew about being able to pocket other balls including the 9 on a pushout,etc. At times,that is your best move strategically. In this case however,I'm referring specifically to the lowest-numbered ball in play at the time in 9 or 10 ball. In their discussion,the 2 ball was the...

In a conversation the other day,2 of my buddies were discussing the push-out in rotation games,and I believe both of them to be wrong. One said on a push you could only move the lowest-numbered object ball,the other said that you can actually MAKE the ball and either spot it,or it stays down...

The normal Elk cuts much better (with your toolpost cutter) if you wipe a little thin CA glue on the sides and wipe with a paper towel. Once you get down close to the ferrule,you can reapply the CA and finish with a utility blade. I'm making a batch of Elks and Triangles that are soaked and...

As one of the first people and repairmen to speak up about the quality of these tips,hopefully you can get around the bullshit and keep going. I'll order some of the new tips when I place my next order,working on my 13th now. Tommy D.

I've always read on here that almost every finish sticks best if you stop at 320 or 400 at the most,of course removing any dirt,oil,etc after that. Tommy D.

On a recent trip to Nashville,I checked out the Woodcraft store and found a "faux ivory acrylic rod" that looks a LOT like this. I plan on using it to make a ferrule and see how it works out. Tommy D.

Yep that is the way to go,but have only used this on ferrules that were threaded on. I've never let an unthreaded ferrule for a B/J cue leave my hands. Tommy D.

Niels lived in Akron,Oh for a while when he first came over,and played in the legendary Starcher's where there were 100 guys that played like burning hell on 9ft Gold Crowns and never dodged anyone. Tommy D.

The closest thing to whatever water buffalo tip Schon uses is a tip that is no longer made,the reddish-coated one piece Sumo. That is based on personal results. The Sumos can still be found,but not common. Whatever Schon uses is typically thicker than most,but the closest thing out there these...

The Crown Jewels was valued at 10k in the 80's,sold for 17k in 1989 and sold again for 85k less than 10 feet away from where Rempe sold it AND in plain view of Rempe. I was at a MPBA tournament in Memphis when this happened and saw the whole thing. Rempe had a look on his face like he shit...

That item is a Taylor Tenon Machine. It was used to cut down the end of a shaft or even a one-piece house cue and turn it down to size to mount a ferrule and eventually a tip on. Tommy D.

What sucks is that selection of tooling would actually be a nice find,as well as a capable machine probably. Tommy D.

I had to go to Nashville for a Dr appt at Vanderbilt yesterday so while I was in the area I went to Woodcraft and bought some T-88. I'll report results soon as I have 'em :wink:. Tommy D.

I appreciate the input guys. So far the T-88 or West System seems to be the way to go at this point. I work hard at improving things,and stay out of the mudslingin' crap that goes on here at times,and help out when I can,so it's nice to see this not turn into a pointless argument :cool:. Tommy D.

That looks more like Ivorine 3 to me. It was a linen based phenolic,not melamine unless I was informed incorrectly. Joss was first to use Aegis,but other cuemakers eventually found it. Ivorine 3 was used by default for years by McDermott,and Schon supposedly had their own version. Tommy D.

I agree with the need to re-grind MOST carbides right out of the box,but would like to add an exception that I have first-hand experience with. The cutters from Micro 100 are totally usable immediately. I don't know if it's just a better grade of carbide,or ground differently at the factory,but...

Is tensile strength as claimed on the package a truly accurate representation of the suitability for what we do? For example,I have tried several different 5 min or "fast setting" epoxies over the years,and my best results have come from JB Weld brand ClearWeld,which claims a 4400PSI tensile...