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No, we don't have any in the PNW that I'm aware of.

The slate is oversized and the rails bolt through the slate.

The anchor side pocket is 13/16" inch both sides, the stretch to side pocket is 5/8" inch both sides. This only applies to full radius pocket shelfs. Bar table slates are half stretch reduced both sides.

That's the Dymondwood Rosewood rails, made out of phenolic resin, same as the object balls.

That was a typo, should have been 46"×92" but at any rate, I'm trying to think when it was that we went to the 45"×90" 8fts. I'm thinking it was around 03' or 04' because I sold the first one made as a coin op to Doc's Tavern over in Ocean Park, WA. We changed the Professionals to 45"×90" later...

100% correct!

How old is this table? Is it the 46"×92" or the 45"×90" playing surface? Does it HAVE a leveling system?

Hate to be the one to break ot to you, but that's not a GC2, it's a refinished GC1.

Would you bet on that shot, or take your chances with a 2 rail kick???

I was living in Germany in the mid 70's as the pubs started installing the black ball coin operated pool tables. In Germany, they put their own twist on the game and turned it into 8 ball last pocket!!! Qin thousands $$$ playing against the German locals in Frankfurt in the clubs!!

You have it backwards. Blackball is a spin off version of American 8 ball. Then spread to the UK and the British put their twist on the game in the early 70's. From there is spread wider to other countries like Australia. It was around 1970 that the first pool tables began to appear in the UK's...

Yes, and gives you dead center alignment of the corner and side pockets in relation to the featherstrip dados.

If you install cloth the table was designed for, those are mute issues.

Never had balls get stuck in the tracks!

I have the only pocket jig for Diamonds, but there's more to it than meets the eye, the pocket jig might show you than on one side of the pocket you may have to extend the rail, while on the opposite side, you might have to sand back the rail.

There's more to know about Valley tables other than just installing cloth.

Why wouldn't they, we've been building and selling them now for 24 years, and they still look and play great.

They're designed that way. The slant back at the bottom of the rail cap is designed to keep the rail blocks from sliding up if they come loose. You need to check the slate depth in the cabinet to make sure both slates are set at the correct depth, so the rails play the same.

Easiest way to quiet down the ball return tracks is to go under the table, open the leg doors, then stuff sound damping padding inside under the tracks. You have access to both sides through 4 leg doors.