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IMO, the sweet spot for table lighting is 20K Lumes with a temp of 5000K. People often forget CRI (Color Rendering Index) which is a measurement for color accuracy under lighting. I think this also plays a crucial role in pool table lighting given all the color on the table. A CRI of 90 or...

Frankencrownist.

Nope. Facebook.

Run them in this weekly.

You will also have to adjust the subrail bevel so modern cushions properly fit the subrail to ensure correct nose height and the playing surface retains a true 2:1 ratio.

Brunswick has never met the WPA specs except for their Tournament Edition Gold Crowns. Standard Brunswick corners are 4 7/8" to 5 1/8".

Why don't you call them?

West State sells retail as well. https://weststatebilliards.com/?srsltid=AfmBOorj1QAAugLTvHaRB2Ez-wnuXyueuj-_VqNZgtYHdkud5SawMUCd

Chalk dust.

Yup. If they aren't in the field of play, no need to fill them. What kid of table?

I rotate between: Dynaspheres Rhodium Cyclop Hyperion Brunswick Centennials Aramith Tournaments I prefer the Cyclop and Dynashpheres because I like the look and they stay cleaner longer.

The biggest differences between the Medalist and Gold Crown are the frame and the rails. The Gold Crown has a far more robust frame with the Medalist being less stout. The Medalist has one piece long rails where the Gold Crown has two piece long rails.

I'd use Bondo at the seams while you're at it.

I was 23 and most likely drunk.

I didn't take it as such. It's not a simple matter of the speeds being different. The RPM of the platters impacts the Coriolis Effect, i.e. the spiraling of the balls so they do not spin on one axis. This matters because he wanted to build a polisher that functioned like a Diamond (spirals...

Without details, there's nothing.

Changing the pulley size will change the RPM at which the platters spin which may also affect the spiraling effect. If you have an Ace Hardware close to you, they sell V belts in varying lengths. They may have what you need so you do not have to wait for a shipment to arrive.

You‘ve come this far, you may as well go all the way! LOL!

There was a known bad batch that they should be able to identify by your serial numbers your cloth was part of that run. There’s a thread about this in the Main Forum. They’ll get back with you and make it right.

My bet is IF they changed resins, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference.