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Prather Cues makes them to your spec https://prathercue.com/pages/decorative-rings

This came up on FB Marketplace. Lathes are located in Texas. Seller says he doesn't want to ship, but if you have a friend nearby maybe that would work. I do not know the seller and have no association with this sale: Cue Lathe(s) for Sale

Tom, do you have a 3D printer? There's several designs on GrabCad and Thingiverse for such a holder. Or you can buy one already printed here: http://actionbilliardsupply.com/?fbclid=IwAR13bsNxm31yJSG4EIG5VBcJWf7jKmoeNYi-RBorANxDB2hbj0in19SUs6k

http://www.midamericapool.com/basic-repair-lathe-w-4-foot-bed.html

I bought this one. Increments in .01 grams and comes with a 50 gram reference. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MP1WFHZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bore it out clean, then glue in an extra long plug. After the glue/epoxy dries, turn down the extra length to form a new tenon. Don't use wood filler.

Which tip plays like another tip is very much an individual decision, but it seems to me that it is your job, as a cue tech, to guide your customers. After all, you are making a LOT more profit from an individual tip install than Tom is from the sale of that one tip.

I use Fusion 360 with my Centroid Acorn controller and closed-loop stepper motors. It's true that AutoDesk recently made changes to the free/hobby version of Fusion 360 and that was because they discovered too many users were violating their terms and conditions and making too much money selling...

You have to know the weight of the cue and the weight of the bolt to answer your question. However, after that it is simply physics. Kelly Peterson of MVPCues has written a program (for purchase) that will accurately model the balance point of a cue.

Well, yes you could skip the sandpaper, but wet sanding with1500+ is commonly used for polishing. I, for one, polish (after wet sanding up to 4000) using compounds by rubbing them in up and down the cue - spinning on a lathe can put swirls in the finish which are readily visible and then hard...

Sure you can! You buff it up much the same way you would restore the shine on an automobile. Wipe the cue with denatured or isopropyl alcohol to get any grease off. Wet sand with 1500 or higher wet/dry sandpaper to get any oxidation off. Rub, using a soft cloth, with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound...

The "good" linen - Cortland - is no longer available, though some cuemakers have small amounts of it stashed away. As for "a better wrap that will hold better over time", doesn't 25 years seem pretty good? Good luck

The OP knows what he's talking about (I think). And yes Pivot Point and Balance Point are two different things. I don't think you can easily change the pivot point of a cue. Here's a link that explains what the pivot point is and how to adapt to it...

Chris, I think we all have learned enough from you over the years that we at least owe you a Wagyu burger! :thumbup:

Can you tell us more about how you install tips? Are you using a lathe? Thanks Gary

Here's a link to a set of tables explaining what each of the letters and numbers mean in carbide insert codes http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm Gary

I'm wondering why you think you need sharper points? In general, inserts designed to cut aluminum are recommended for hardwoods. HTH Gary

And I don't see any glue / pressure relief channels in the locator barrel. Gary

Sorry, I did say "glued into the end", they are glued up further in the handle, then a wood plug is glued in behind them, then the bumper. You won't see the weight. It could very well be that there is no weight - take a small "earth magnet" or "super magnet" and slide it along the outside of...

That old bar cue probably has a hefty weight "bolt" near the end - I say "bolt" because they are often not threaded, just chunks of steel or iron glued into the end. Take care if you start drilling