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Not just league night, but any tournaments. We have a few players in our weekly tournaments that are extremely slow. It is a real issue with everyone. It creates a problem as a TD/owner particularly when the slowest player may be one of your best $ spending customers, or their spouse.

Are you slow down over the shot or making your decision as to what to do before you even get over the shot? Some players may be slow in one of those two aspects, but the player who is slow in both is very hard to play against. Figure out which one of those two aspects most needs to be sped up...

The age of the table, the geographic area you are located, the condition of the table (particularly the condition of the wood, the finish, the cushions and the pockets) will affect the price. The condition of the cloth is not much of a factor as generally the buyer will be replacing with new...

At most levels of play including tournament play, as long as the player is legitimately attempting a draw shot and miscues and unintentionally scoops the cue ball, regardless of whether the cue ball jumps or not, but still contacts the lowest ball first, I have never heard of a foul called by...

John, awesome job! Not nearly the same magnitude as your achievement, but at 67 I’ve had a solid year so far in our weekly 9-ball handicapped tournaments here at Family Billiards. I’m a top rated player of our 5 handicap ratings and we draw 15-25 players per week. At least a third of which...

Yes, there would be no fold marks if the cloth is unrolled straight from the bolt or 1/2 bolt before installation. But if the cloth is prepackaged in single sets and shipped that way, there is no telling how long the cloth has been folded up. In that case, no matter how correctly and how...

Probably not possible for the installer to get rid of the fold marks at the completion of the installation, but the least he could’ve done is clearly explain to the table owner about the fold marks being normal when the cloth is shipped folded up, and that they should go away within a few weeks...

I haven’t had a chance to watch the video yet and I’m not sure if you mentioned this, but the bottom line for me is the longer the bridge length beyond the optimal length, the harder I think it is to strike the cue ball exactly where you intend to strike it.

The fold marks when newly installed Simonis that has been packed and shipped in individual sets as opposed to a bolt roll should disappear. Ours always have although it might take a month or more.

So was this very obviously visible crack on the butt there when you first took possession of the cue? Did you not closely inspect the cue when you first got it? It doesn’t sound like you discovered the crack and returned it immediately and I’m just curious why not?

Generally for most racks, there is extra room allowed on the bottom of the rack to allow you to more easily lift and remove the rack after racking. As a result there would likely be an inch or more between the corner ball and the ball out of the rack, making a dead combo even less likely to occur.

Sounds like you are at least in your 60s? Yes, I’m afraid at this age you do need to adjust your expectations. I ran 98 balls when I was in my mid 40s and was so disappointed I didn’t get to 100 that I laid off for a while, although I continued to play 9-ball. Then in my 60s (I’m now 67) I...

Last time I checked most big tournament matches are not one single game. I do agree that for tournaments at all levels, a 9-ball made on the break should not result in winning the game, even though it’s considerably less likely to happen with racking templates.

Lesser games? What in your opinion makes them lesser games? One could easily claim that Jayson’s mastery of the rotation games is the reason that he makes 14.1 high runs look so easy.

I received a boxed set about a month ago that I had ordered from Simonis about a year ago. Sadly I haven’t been able to see them as I’ve chosen (at least for now) to keep them in the sealed plastic, just in case I may decide to sell them for a $ offer I can’t turn down.

That is an older set. I have a 25+ year old set with the same box but mine have the > < notches by the numbers unlike yours. Cuestix sells replacement individual Centennial balls, but the notches won’t match the balls in your old set, not to mention the contrast between the new replacement...

Any experienced and reputable pool table mechanic should have worked on snooker tables. Only really specialized expertise needed for snooker table work would be if you are altering your pocket specs.

Many players by habit prefer a little outside on a shot like you describe. I prefer center ball, so you can completely eliminate squirt and swerve entirely from the aiming process.

For those that look at the the CB last, looking at the shaft after contact to confirm the shaft is following straight through down the target line makes sense.

After nearly 20K posts and the hundreds of threads you’ve started, I’m still waiting for one single thread or reply that makes any semblance of sense at all. I guess that’s the only reason I waste my time looking at anything you post.