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I use a Vernier caliper.:smile: I also use a Z2 low deflection shaft. Geometrically your method is sound but the necessary bridge adjustments are legion but can be memorized.

Thank you both. I shoot spot shots with the CB edge about an inch from the near side rail and make them consistently. I thought that was 30 degrees until I protracted it on CAD. I guess that was due to hitting the CB with top bridging from the rail. 30 degrees would have the butt of the cue...

The distances that will allow for CIT are 9.5" for 1° of throw, 8.6" for 2° of throw, 7.7" for 3° of throw, and 6.7" for 4° of throw. I don't get it. Is there a diagram/s?

That works. Put your bridge closer to the CB to effect a large angle or lengthen the distance to reduce the angle - This also works for the separation between the OB and CB...you know. Try not to shape with the CB near the rail - hard to lengthen the bridge distance.:smile:

For beginners: Assuming that the center of the cue tip is aimed at the center of the CB, then sighting down the side/edge of the shaft would be 1/2 the diameter of the tip to the side of the center of the CB. If the tip has a diameter of 1/2 inch, then the shaft side would be 1/4 inch to the...

You lengthen your fingers and apply back hand english? Or you move the fingers of your bridge to the side to effect english?

"Straight on and total miss as two main aiming points." That's easy. Somewhere in between is hard.

A little bit matters?

Do you get precise shape on the next ball?

More diagrams to illustrate the CP2CP Pivot System that is based on complementary isosceles triangle geometry. Have fun

If you can move your bridge back 16" from the cue tip, then a 1/2 point can be used instead of a 1/3 point depicted in the earlier diagrams. 1/2 is easier to visualize than 1/3 for me. Have fun.

duckie, Hi. You are correct and what you are asking is too large of a problem that has been discussed in other threads - you know that. What good is shape if you miss the shot? I do this for fun and it's free. Be well.

AtLarge, Thanks for the correction. I was interested in your earlier comment about moving the bridge hand a little bit (distance) to the side. So I wondered what that little bit was for a very thin cut. All other moves to the side would be smaller for other thicker angles. I will correct the...

Aiming the tip at points on the CB Pre-pivot (1) is more parsimonious: Have fun

Perhaps this will be easier for some users to try: Have fun. It occurs to me that the pre-pivot aiming point could be 1/4 the distance from the CCB to the second aim point (opposite the contact point on the CB) I will diagram that soon. More fun to come.

Thanks for the thanks and you time invested in trying what I proffer for free. Keep having fun.

Thanks for trying. It should work for all separations greater than 1 diamond. The geometry is predicated on the bridge hand 1/2 way between the cue tip and your normal gripping spot on the cue butt. You say that you tried it with the first location of your bridge at 30" behind the cue tip and...

AtLarge, When I posted this thread, I was at home and my laptop only has crude PowerPoint and the grip fell off of the page (LOL), but the concept looked OK but I needed to get to work and on Acad to prove that the same and similar Isoseles triangles created by the points of aim and pivots...

Just put it on your cue. http://tdcdecals.com/Just-Shoot-it-Funny-Nike-Hunting-Vinyl-Decal-Sticker-P1768355.aspx

For those that have followed my other threads, this is similar and more parsimonious::wink: New aiming method inspired by AtLarge; This is Powerpoint so some objects are not placed exact. At step 1, 2, 3 and 4 Place the bridge 1/2 way between the tip and grip. At step 5 slide the bridge...