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50% on shaft type, wood vs carbon. I'd say the days of non-LD shafts are numbered, but not the days of wood shafts.

Excellent lesson! Thanks!

This is a great point. What we tell ourselves in our mind, whether it's about our skills or equipment, can certainly affect how we perform. I've been playing with a Mezz cue now for about 10 years or so. I love how it feels when the tip strikes the ball. I've played with so many different...

Using youtube videos was definitely not accurate. Lol. So I used my own videos and the "coach's eye" app to get exact times at various points. I have an 8ft Diamond table, and it takes 8.2s for the cb to travel two lengths (lag shot from 1.5in off the rail and finishing 1.5in off the rail)...

I would call that a medium speed. Down and back once is about lag speed, just a touch faster. I'd say lag speed averages out to about 2 to 2.5mph. 2 table lengths averages out to about 3 to 4 mph on fast cloth. I'd call that a soft shot. It doesn't take much more effort to get another 2...

Down and back twice? Is that what you mean?

I believe medium soft to medium firm speeds are around 5-12mph, with normal being in the 7 to 10 range. Soft would likely be 2 to 4mph. Firm would be greater than 12 but less than 20, which is a good break speed. This is just based on timing a few shots from YouTube.

I think it's easier to control speed/distance and accuracy when rolling the cb, rather than using draw. So, anytime there's a choice of rolling for position or drawing for position, rolling is usually the better option.

Is this because the cushion/points compress more?

Not that this is a solution to your draw problem, but be sure to look for all options before deciding your shot. In this sketch, for example (maybe it wasn't exactly like this in real life), the 8ball goes in the opposite side pocket. So, simply rolling forward, maybe bumping the 12, will...

If you're feeling more anal, which is probably not good, lol, the actual number is 1.01"

Yeah... on a valley barbox, or Dr. Dave's table, this works just fine - the balls have all kinds of play/slop to drop into the pocket. On a tougher table, however (even with 4.5" pockets and at least a 1" shelf), the ball has to be hit at a soft pocket speed if you hit the cushion, else it will...

Yes, once a player works with 8ths and 16ths for a while, fine-tuning fractional aims/overlaps to much finer and more precise hits when needed becomes easier to judge and hit.

Hitting firm with a soft tip causes the tip to grab the ball, and it deforms as it grabs, absorbing quite a bit of the impact, while the ferrule/shaft end moves forward and sideways a bit, leaving the tip behind for a brief time. The hit is not very efficient compared to using a hard or...

So I guess none of this matters. I mean, if a harder offset hit causes more speed but somehow doesn't result in more spin, I'm definitely lost. Actually, calling it a "harder" hit is wrong. A harder tip has a more efficient hit. I'm not talking about the difference between hitting a shot...

Sort of. A harder tip produces more speed and spin than a softer tip when the same stroke effort is used, though any significance of the difference is questionable. Still, it would be nice to know just how much different certain shots would play with a hard tip (not phenolic) vs a super-soft...

Hitting harder. Yes. Lol... ok. Let's say two baseball players are talking about two different baseball bats. Both bats weigh the same and are the same size. One bat, however, is made of thick plastic with a soft rubber coating around it, while the other is a standard aluminum bat. One...