Search results

OK, that helps me out. I truly didn't know if they were commanding ridiculous prices and wanted to learn the value of what I had. If I had a bunch I would share some, but should keep the few I have in case a customer ever requests it for a build.

I only have 4 ferrules. Two that would yield 3/4" length, two that would yield .9" length. All capped and threaded. I don't know if they are for sale because I don't know what the going rate is for them. :indecisive: Is it a secret? $100 a ferrule. Ridiculous? OK, what is the going rate...

I'm pretty sure that is the same species of wood as the shaft I mentioned in my previous post, which also came in a group of maple dowels. I appreciate the correction.

What is the going rate for threaded Ivor-X ferrules that Joey first offered to folks?

It is yellow birch. Slightly stiffer than maple. I have made a J/B shaft from birch.

I got you covered! :thumbup:

I don't think he is concerned how his Joint protector hits. <couldn't help himself>

Some white rod sizes I was out of are now restocked. Thanks for all of the orders. :)

It happened to me once when they upgraded the forum software. Not otherwise that I have noticed.

I think this might be why sometimes you can see the ever so small remnant of a vee groove at the very tip of one (or more) of the points. If a cutter is say 88-89 degrees (which has been reported) and the point stock is a good 90 they will fight to get all the way to the bottom when you clamp...

I don't believe you have made it this far without being able to make a face cut. I used the exact same words you did regarding people who don't sand the tips of points, but for the subject of not trusting a facing cut. These are your exact words: "For whatever reason I never trust the lathe...

I have faith I will still be able to get near perfectly even points with the pointed forearm cues I have started. Regarding FS, after purchasing blanks that have the longest and the shortest points next to each other, and the width of the base of the points varying by as much as .100 within the...

It is good you know you are close minded on this and admit you can't be convinced of something. I won't make my post to try and convince you, only to offer another take for anyone who cares. I hate cues or shafts being out of round. It drives me nuts. The last partial I got from a well known...

Hi Catalin. I agree you are a bit anal, but you also strike me as reasonable. You don't seem to be here to vilify the cuemaker, so I see no reason to vilify you. Regarding the rounded or chamfered joint collar edges, as stated, some do that. I prefer a smooth feel across the joint so...

He does. Long shaft blanks are readily available from one of the largest cue making supply places. Shaft blanks starting over 30" isn't the norm, but having a few blanks over 30" on hand for long shaft requests shouldn't be viewed as unusual or difficult.

Huh. How come? I don't recall ever seeing that. I assumed it was a dimple (basically an impression) left at the very very bottom of a center hole. Edit: Because they can't get their tool on center so they are manually removing a nub?

Extremely acceptable. It is threaded. Being able to remove all of the center hole would have been better though.

The 8, not the 8 and the break. :eek:

Likely the pieces labeled BRW.

#23, PM just sent