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I think it's important because the longer your shaft is in front of your bridge hand, the more power/leverage you have when going to break. Also, I would be surprised if you guys don't move your playing hand and bridge hand for different shots. I shorten up my stroke on short ticky and finesse...

I've heard this before. In what way does diameter and balance change anything?

Fair enough. I was a bit lazy in my post. What I mean is, if I ask for weight and you beat me pretty easily. I'm going to ask for more later.

Since you can't really tell how much better a player is than you, which is natural. Ask for a handicapped that they are uncomfortable with. When they hesitate to give you that handicap/weight. You will know where you stand with them. If they are comfortable with your first offer. Ask for more.

Cool. Hey what kind of cue are you playing with in the video?

Badass! is that a 10' table? pretty tough either way.

There's more out there then you might think.

This is so true is some ways and so false in other ways. You wouldn't use a cardboard cue to break with and you wouldn't use an aluminum cue to play with. although I think they're are some variations of the latter that have been sold. My point is the joint material might not be why you missed...

I have a wood joint carom cue made of maple I think. I love the softness of the hit, especially in straight-rail billiards. I think I get a lot of feedback from it which translates well with adjusting to shots imo. This is one reason I'm not a big fan of carbon shafts. They advertise NO...

True, but not sure a 1/4 ball cut works on the 9', I think that's pretty extreme.

In this exact scenario, 1/4 cut break. Making the 1 ball into the side. To be more specific cut the 1 ball on the same side of the table you are breaking from. while drawing the cueball to the side rail. The 1/4 cut is crucial here. you're cutting it more because the rack is closer to you...

one of the cool things about straight-rail which 14.1 or straight-pool also has in common is that they are both great games to play alone. It's easy to get bored for beginners or even advanced players. But very rewarding once you get good at it. 3c is the shortcut to the dopamine hit.

I wonder if the regular 3c balls bounce around funny off the rails or something. And where do you play out of? I know any many European countries it's common to have to work your way up to a 10' I think that mentality is necessary in straight-rail but not 3c.

I think 3c still has some potential to grow kind of like how 1pkt has. More low-skill level players now are playing 1pkt more than ever before. Which is cool to see. What's interesting is how many pool rooms do have 1 or 2 carom tables and many pool players choose not to play or learn.

The entry point to billiards is not putting two object balls next to each other with your hand and making a carom.

Maybe, but what's your point? No one plays this way. And why are we getting hypothetical? we play carom billiards in real life.

Anyways... you should try playing some time. It's a fun game.

How does this even happen? That seems wildly inconvenient. Like in Korea can they not use the normal size carom balls on all of their tables?

I think it's pretty hard to make 1 point playing straight-rail or carom billiards. Much harder than making 1 ball in pool. I bet more people can run 3 balls in pool than run 3 balls in carom billiards.

It's definitely grown, but I think it's hard to get into. The learning curve is pretty big for beginners. My point is, I've seen many pool players who are interested in 3c but most of them don't stick with it. Even more so with straight-rail. I hope it grows more.