Search results

If we're going to stifle heated discussion, there might as well be no forum. I actually find dissenting opinions interesting and more informative than a collectionof "yes men" marching in lock step...

Now that's a sensible response.

I think if you considered that the pad is in place of the leather that would have taken the same volume, plus the difference in weight between said pad and the CB, it's safe to assume the pad makes an insignificant difference to CB deflection. So weighed (no pun intended) against the enhanced...

If you can find a guy with a CNC lathe it can be done a bit easier.... even easier with live tooling and something like this: http://internaltool.com/products/mill/136/acme-thread-mills http://internaltool.com/products/mill/147/Acme_internal_thread_mill

Amazing... you've amassed quite a collection there!

With all this talk about fume inhalation, I'm wondering how many here actually use a respirator to spray. I wear one, as well as a Tyvek suit and gloves. You'd be amazed how much less stuff gets on your finish, just by suiting up. I was fortunate enough to have the room to build a small spray...

I use ACME Finish1, sold at Sherwin Williams automotive paints stores.

In my beginnings with DIY CNC, Kerk anti-backlash leadnuts were ridiculously expensive. So making leadnuts required some MacGyver work. The first way was to drill a hole in a block of Delrin, drill and tap a hole for a SHCS on each side, then cut the block in half, drill out relief for the...

Just use 3/8"-10 ACME...:thumbup: Though I'm a bit surprised it's not used...

I use a 2-part automotive urethane on my guitars, with an inexpensive HVLP conversion gun. Flash coat in 5 minutes, dust-free in 10, and ready to sand and buff in a few hours. Dries very hard, and I achieve a very thin, clear finish. Possibly the wait time between coats has something to do...

I would believe to allow the finish to flow out some before "locking" it in. Maybe a rotisserie unit from a barbecue grill would work, along with the lamp on an actuator? Bob Taylor was the first I know to use them on acoustic guitars, and Michael Greenfield the first independent builder...

Make them 11/32...:D

I have an older Frey I believe, with a SS joint, that I had bought used from someone a while back. I have one shaft I believe to be stock with a Kamui clear hard, and another no-name shaft. I think it hits great...

Very cool... textured leather would look hot!

I thought we were talking about rosewood LOL!!! As to your thought on the forearm, it is still coupled directly to the joint sleeve, which mates to the joint sleeve of the shaft, to the shaft wood... Of course, one could engineer the butt such that the outer forearm sleeve does NOT touch the...

Well my words on epoxy were in your response to your blanket statement about the use of PU glues for cores. That said, guitar building is just as much a process of attenuating frequencies as much as enhancing them. Probably one reason why certain tips play well with a certain cue but not...

Back in the early days of guitar building, there was no industrial revolution, no saw mills, lumber yards. A luthier would obtain a tree or logs, split the logs, and let mother nature dry them. When a log is split radially, the billets are all purely quartered with absolutely no run-off...

Well, if you had scraps/drop-offs, you could make a blank out of a lamination of BRW scraps, turn down the forearm area 1/8" following the butt taper, taper-core an oversize maple forearm blank, glue it, then cut the maple down to match, this making a 1/8" maple veneer over a full BRW blank. Do...

I was reacting to what I thought was excessive over-reaction and assumptions. I promise, I'm mostly good natured in person. I'm a ball-breaker though, but if you don't see my hand gestures and devilish grin, it may not seem like ball-breaking. The emoji I used, admittedly, may have not been...