I agree, do a small sample spot. If you keep sanding you will end up with a cue quite a bit smaller than what you started out with and depending on the consistency of your sanding you might not have continuous straight piece of wood anymore.
Did you try with a lint free cloth and isopropyl...
Industrial strength induction heaters might be able to generate more heat in non magnetic materials than the standard hand held induction heaters most of us use. I have tried Ti, Brass and pins like Predators own Uni'loc pins and no matter how long I use the indiction heater these won't get...
You always use compressed air when sanding. After sanding, you blow off dust again and wipe down with a cloth of thinner or isopropyl. I use a nap free kind of cloth you can get at an automotive store.
My question is more why you are buying Predator cues when you clearly want cues with 5/16-18.
Changing the pin is always a risky thing to do. How much heat it takes can vary wildly and some cues does not respond well to heat at all, Predator with their graphics and faux finishes is one of them...
Whatever you do, don't think you can sand your shaft to fit, it's not how it works. As for aftermarket shaft, different brands etc. There's no agreed upon standard for joint pins, joint collar diameter etc. There's also different ways of make cues and shafts. Most Filipino makers finish the...
Juma is more "powdery" when you turn it and if you make inserts and the wall thickness is quite slim, I can see it being a bigger chance that will crack than Hydex.
It's a scam Facebook page.
It's pretty obvious if you scroll down further.
Only buy from certified dealers. Predator has a dealer list like most others:
https://int.predatorcues.com/pages/dealer-locator?_pos=2&_psq=Dealers+&_ss=e&_v=1.0
I install the collar first. If the shaft doesn't have a center drilled hole I do that first.
When the collar is installed. I turn everything to size, then do the threads, then I finish the shaft, so I take into account the thickness of the finish when turning down the shaft collar.
Modern low deflection shafts makes it much harder, but if you have a 13mm shaft with a linen based ferrule a not too long taper and a medium or harder tip it should be doable for sure.
I reached out to them, no answer. I think they sell to industry, not small fish like myself. Besides it's basically a cladding with a special chemical treatment, it's not like say Rocklite, Obsidian ebony and sonowood.
They most certainly are.
Just go to their website and you will find their email address. I spoke to Jim for less than two weeks ago.
Remember that this year's SBE show just wrapped, so many cuemakers and people in the industry has been super busy.
I have used Tomahawk and Hydex a lot and I haven't seen these materials melt or create a "diamond" shape like I often see on Cynergy ferrules or the old Taom break tips. That said it's nothing wrong with using Juma or Elforyn either, they are tried and true. I don't have the numbers in front of...
Carbide grades, angles and geometry is whole field in itself. So asking if carbide is sharper than a utility blade really depends on the insert type and geometry. I use a SCLCR 1212 turning tool with CCGT 060202 inserts, these have the smallest radius tip, so it's the sharpest inserts, they are...