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Get dedicated cues for each task. A break/jump cue will always be a compromise and it will in most cases lean towards making jumping easy.

It's a right pain to try to refinish these cues. If you want a ebony/maple sneaky, buy a ebony/maple sneaky..

Because you can is the short answer. Am I a fan? Not at all..

A picture helps a lot.. If it's nick in the shaft, that's permanent, so it's hard to say without seeing a picture of the actual shaft.

You can do your best and follow what you think it's the best way to eliminate warp, but the only way is to have lots of shafts going and accept that a certain percent will end up as firewood.

Oak is as stated about the same hardness as sugar maple, however the coarse grain does not look good in a cue if you ask me. I have seen oak used several times and I can't think of a single instance oak has lifted the appereance of the cue, the same way say a BEM/ebony, curly maple/PH or any...

Third post about this. Interesting.. Cuetec isn't a full 3/8-14 as Mr. Webb already has explained to you. But if you need a Cuetec maintenance arbor, just order one, they are readily available and work well. If you want to know the specs, just measure a pin yourself, it's not that difficult...

They are essential. Do you want to risk cracking your $70 piece of Gaboon ebony, just to save a few bucks. Auger drill bits creates a shit ton of heat and forstner bits isn't meant for deep drilling, what other alternative do you really have?

They should fit as snug as possible. I use gage pins to test the hole and machine my vault plate to that exact outside diameter. A few shallow glue grooves helps a lot.

Probably an Asian ball pin.

Short pin, not the same ridgidity as with the full length pin..

It probably is, but that not really what I meant. Lets use Kamui as an example. They now have 7 lines of tips: Kamui Black, Kamui Original, Kamui Clear Black, Kamui Clear Original, Athlete, SAI and Carom, (they also have snooker tips btw. but lets disregard that right now) so just from Kamui I...

So you want to make a wood insert instead of a phenolic or Juma insert? It's no different, just choose a wood that gives clean thread if you want to use it with a big pin like Radial or 3/8-10. Maple works great, but it will be a little light. If you want a wooden plug and add a bit more weight...

I have never had a customer who like those tips, they feel weird, I'm not trying to pick a fight mate, I'm just saying that the cost involved are justified, both in terms of time spent and running costs involved. Lots of people hope to do tip jobs on a shoestring budget and it always ends up...

You are totally clueless.. Factor in costs in that figure and the $30 profit looks very, very different. Are you even aware of how much machinery and the products we use cost? Not only that, do you think we stock 5 tips in a corner somewhere? Every time I order from Taom, Kamui, Caiden or any...

You need a epoxy that suitable for the job. 5min epoxy, regardless of the brand is junk! Use a slow cure epoxy. Get a scale that accurately measures small amounts, lay a playing card on the scale, power it on, weight out equal parts of the epoxy (or whatever ratio the manufacturer recommends.)...

Tomahawk is a vastly better material than the brittle ferrule material Rhino uses.

I don't think the type of cloth, pocket size etc. Is the explanation, that sounds like a cope to me. The format itself seems broken or alt least needs a rethink. Look at the level of today's players it has improved considerably the last 15 years or so, simple patterns, the break now the most...

All of the players in question are very familiar with those conditions in this case.

Vinyl covered plywood and some rubber bumpers. Total cost for a rack, probably $25. CNC machines and lasers don't cost what they used to do, so even factoring in equipment, time, web site hosting and so on $500 is just wild.