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I'll be countersinking some diamonds. Before I painted it I punched the exact center of each diamond, drilled a small hole, and left a waxed finishing nail sticking up. After I painted it I removed the nails and there's a small hole marking the center of each diamond now. I think for diamonds...

Hm. I don't remember how it was when I got it, but I have the corner pockets held in with machine screws into the corner castings, and a couple of staples from my air gun. The sides just have 2 staples now, but I used 4 before, you can see where they pulled through the rubber when I removed the...

Before I acquired my valley table it lived a hard life in a scuzzy basement bar. It had been quite abused, with the laminate peeling and severe chips and chunks missing. I've had it about 5 years and it was ready for new cloth and rubber, so while I had it apart I reattached all the loose...

What is matchroom? I went to their site and it didn't really clear it up for me. You'd think I'd have heard of the most powerful influence in pool, but here we are.

Personally, if money is tight, I'd save for another month or two before skimping on the cloth. Good cloth is so much more fun than cheap cloth.

Any attention is good attention I guess.

Honestly, I'd leave it. Having some natural light is worth the tradeoff of a little possible fading.

I'm jealous. I'd love for that pile of parts and pieces to show up at my house, and have the room to set it up. It'd be a lot of fun putting it together.

It's a must if you want to play straight pool, but I'd do it regardless. I wish pool halls would do this as standard.

That sounds more like you've been playing with dirty equipment. If you chalk less than you should, the crud stuck to the balls gets hammered into the leather on the tip and forms a glaze. Once it's glazed it won't hold chalk well. When this happens just sand the outside skin off the tip and...

Nope. Balls be tough.

That's not remotely true. Even just looking at one variable, unintentional skids, they happen at a much much lower frequency with quality balls than they do with cheap balls. This is not a trivial difference. Of course a good player is going to know how to adapt to playing with cheap balls...

Nice run. Nine foot Brunswicks are always my favorite for straight pool.

Here's my review from that thread: I have quite a few more hours on these balls since that review, and my opinion hasn't changed. Possibly the happiest I've ever been with a pool related purchase. Either that, or the perma-rack template I bought from the AZB member "Side Pocket" who makes them.

Or they know that serious players won't be buying anything other than phenolic balls, and that these will likely be purchased by rec players that will use the balls 4 times a year, and wouldn't know a decent ball if they stepped on it. The rate of recall for a guarantee like that has to be way...

Redoing the cloth on my valley I realized I didn't have any super 77. I went to the closest store that sold it, and they were also out, but they had some Gorilla brand spray adhesive. I figured that since they made some good tape and glue that their spray should work just fine, so I bought it. I...

Yeah. If you go back to K2Kraze's picture of all 4 sets, you can see the complexity of machining gets progressively greater with each set. I could see the platinum set taking 10x as much labor or more to make than the tungsten set. The more complex balls probably also have a much higher number...

That's a steal.

Agree. The cyclop skittles set I had for several years was the best set of balls I've ever used. I "upgraded" to centennials and hated them. Like a fool I sold the cyclop balls before trying the centennials for awhile. I quickly replaced them with the Dynasphere tungstens I got a couple of...

Don't do it, you'll hate it. Even without the pole the room is too tight for a 7'. The game is just no fun with any obstructions whatsoever.