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I am right eye dominant but have a cateract in my right eye and vision in that eye is about 20% so I have trained myself to be left eye dominant for pool and I do still jump pretty well.

only if its a genuine bolobuska

Jacoby custom with z2 and sniper

I played with solid maple shafts for a long time and about a year ago i switched to predator. It was a 3 month ordeal and i find now i am finally real comforatable with it. I find that on 85% of shots there is no difference but when you have to bring a long stroke shot i have an edge with the ld...

I would hope that everyone would improve after they got a predator or any other cue for that matter we should be continually improving regardless of the equipment involved.

That is definately all that needs said

i am sorry but that is nonsense. I havent seen either tor or jimmys videos but i always have used that shot and the out of corner cross side to determine how a table plays off the rails. Actually the three rail shot is more a basis to determine how much running english is gained from the first...

a tight grip will put the forearm and even bicep in a partially flexed position before the shot this in turn will allow for a less fluid stroke thereby reducing the cue speed you can generate.

The preference one has for which league they prefer is also related to the area they play in. I currently play both tap and apa in this area the competition is stronger overall in the tap league and the rules are somewhat better such as actual call pocket 8 ball with jump cues allowed. But then...

It is never good to rely on a single type of english to make any type of shot on the table even rail shots and from the angles you mentioned that shot should be able to be hit with any or no english as needed for position especially in rotation games. Practice Joe Tuckers rail drills they are...

I would have to disagree with number 3 some of the newer chaulks often leave a heavy smudge on the cue ball and should be allowed to have it cleaned off at the very least after every rack before the break as needed. This often necessary to avoid skidders with rotation games where the ball is...

win the lag and you're going to get to shoot and since pros dont run out on average more than about 30 percent that isnt much of a worry.

I would play any tourny with a 20 dollar entry as it usually costs far more than that for the open tournaments i play.

yes spot the 9 ball in hand on the 8

I am not an instructor but it appears from what i saw your stroke line is a good bit out from your body this can make for some inconsistency as it is easy to not have the same position from shot to shot.

I have to agree with the Bouska tried one and loved it have one on order and cant wait to get it easiest cue to jump with you will ever find. same action with less stroke almost like auto pilot for jump shots.

760 plays a lot faster than 860 and as such if you get used to it you will heel the cloth you run to at most other places will seem to play slow. I recommend practicing on what you usually compete on.

I use a z2 also and i can tell you that on extreme draw shots if you are used to a 13mm tip you are used to being able to draw with your cue almost scraping the cloth on a stroke. With the smaller tip if you have your shaft that low on the vertical plane you are probably outside of the miscue...

in my experience if the bank or kick is a single rail and you are shooting with natural roll and slow speed through the diamond if you are shooting harder than that or using top then adjacent to the diamond but adjustments must be done for speed or spin.

i dont believe your problem is the tip. I believe what is happening is as you hit harder there is a tendency to lose accuracy in your tip placement and you are probably hitting the cue ball above where you think you are. Also hitting higher and softer will absolutely not increase your draw.