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I've been meaning to post this one for a while. I've had it for 14 years Bois de Rose aka Madagascar Rosewood. I'm obviously not the photographer some of you are.

The traditional way is 1) wrap the end of the ferrule with painter's tape before doing any work on the ferrule and 2) spin it in the lathe and blow out the black dust with compressed air. But it sounds like you've already pressed the black dust down into the pores, you don't have a lathe and...

Ditto I have straightened a few but they mostly reverted back. Also, warpage can be seasonal, so some shafts that warp in the winter have been known to go back straight in warmer weather. My 2 cents

I, for one, would be reluctant to core these old butts. It is not unusual to find a metal dowel glued into the bottom 6 inches or so. They weren't designed to be removable. Just sayin'

I have that DRO, except I used the 500mm size, on my Taig-based lathe on the Z (long) axis. It's ideal for setting the end of the ferrule to "0" and then taking only .001-.002" off for facing purposes. I have no problem with the size of the readout on mine.

I would start by facing off the collar end of the shaft(s).

Chuck, Those are protective pads. OB shafts were pie-shaped (radial) laminated with a 3/16" or so hole bored down through the middle, then topped with a maple ferrule. The carbon pads were to help protect the ends. Gary

This has been a good thread with lots of thoughtful insights from all the contributors - thanks for that. One aspect that hasn't been touched on is the repeatability/accuracy of scroll chucks. RidgeRaider has one on his headstock and one in the steady rest. Scroll chucks do not have great...

It's not necessary to buy an entire headstock for a steady rest - individual steady rests with adjustable chucks are available.

I tried the Glide product (above) and yes, it really slicks up a shaft, but mine dried up in the bottle. It is pretty expensive to be throwing away a half-bottle of dried junk. YMMV

For me, dust and fume extraction are two different problems. I use a Ridgid shop vac connected to a Dust Deputy dust collector. A longer hose goes from the Dust Deputy to my spindle where I mounted a custom connector. The Dust Deputy does a great job of capturing dust and wood chips, dropping...

I don't see anything supporting the end of that dowel. Is it just free hanging and only supported by the chuck? I can see the tailstock with an empty quill at the other end of the lathe. The dowel should be supported on the tail end with a live center.

Fish2, when taking pictures of a pin and asking size, you need to place a ruler underneath. One picture with the ruler lengthwise under the pin and one picture with it crosswise under the pin. Then it's much easier for us to determine what the size might be

KGoods, I'll admit I misread the OP, and have been referring to shafts primarily, but construction is the same. I built one carbon fiber butt, it came out to about 13 oz - too light for me. I now know how I would weight it up, but it hit too soft IMHO, so I haven't tried again. On a butt, I...

Yes, I taper it to match the inside, then epoxy it in. Joint insert is 3 inches long

Todd Schultz Todd Schultz, the originator of Mid-America Cues always said it was not a cue building lathe. But someone with some engineering skills could convert it, easily.

I use Tomahawk for the ends and heavy foam for fill

Good job, Soyale!

Thanks Michael, but I'm simply building a new shaft for the guy. I'll have to get a hold of his butt, and see if one of my 5/16-14 shaft inserts partially fits the first few threads, then bore the insert out.

Hey Guys, I got a call from a guy who wants me to build him a shaft to fit the Pechauer butt in the picture. I haven't seen the butt yet so no I don't have any measurements. I searched the forum and back on Valentine's Day of 2022, there was a discussion of fitting a Pechauer shaft, but no...