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Hi, thank-you, yes I did and unfortunately even though they sell partials, they don’t have any. They may have some in the future but are not sure and for some reason, cannot request them from overseas. I also tried the places online that I saw sell partials. No luck with that.

I friend of mine, a very good guy who does a lot for pool, has been waiting for over a year to have his Katana shaft matched up with a cue. Unfortunately the cuemaker was not able to save the decal. Does anyone have an extra one that that they would be willing to sell please? Thank-you

Any other input on preferred material for changing shaft threads or joint pins? Thanks

I like the hit of McDermotts and other wood to wood big pin cues. I’m not sure if installing a plug of maple would produce a similar feel but I’m now wondering if durability of a maple plug would be an issue even if I’m careful.

What would you use to plug the butt and shaft with if you were to install a new brass radial pin in the butt and change a shaft with a brass insert from 5/15x14 to radial? Thanks

I have a cue that I bought where someone replaced the joint with an undersized radial joint. It doesn’t hit as well as I’d like but I love the balance, look, and everything else about it. I know the hit is mostly the tip, ferrule, shaft taper, and a combination of other factors. I know there are...

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It's radial

All prices include insured UPS shipping to continental United States. Not looking for trades, thank-you. All shafts roll straight. From left to right 1. 29” Predator Z3 Uniloc. Nice heavier weight. Rare for a z3 to be this heavy 4.2 ounces 11.86mm $210 2. SOLD 3. SOLD 4. N/A 5. SOLD

I'm looking for a stiff hit with some good feedback for a 3/8x10 pin. Maybe something somewhere in between the hit of maple threads and phenolic threads. I thought purpleheart would hold up better than maple...anyone have any input? Thanks

If you are looking purely for feel, a single layer tip like a good lepro or triangle on a conventional, solid maple shaft is the best and I don't even think it's subjective. Layered tips hold chalk better and are subsequently less prone to miscues, keep their shape better, and are more...

It's long been said that it's much harder to find a good triangle or lepro than it was decades ago...but layered tips seemed to largely fix the inconsistency. I recently bought a g2 soft and it was harder and worse quality than the g2 medium that I cut off to replace. I also bought a tiger...

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Guys. I'm only looking for answers to the original question in the thread title. I've used a lot of break cues and don't need advice about them.

Durability is not my concern

my main concern is maximum power for breaking 8 ball head on. A low-deflection shaft, be it carbon or wood, inherently has less power than a shaft not designed to have give. I’ve used some thicker-walled carbon shafts that deflected quite a bit but were much more powerful than a bk rush for example.

The cutting tool that makes the threads for 5/16x14 and another one that cuts the threads for 5/16x18 are both ran through the brass insert, making it compatible with both as they each have the same inner diameter. I was also surprised when I found out about it, but it's pretty cool and fits...