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Ok, so whomever did this, didn't do good prep and he also removed the tip plate. You can even see some glue starvation there, so either he didn't use enough glue or possibly the ferrule was poorly faced off. Any competent cue maker can fix this for you and it will be as good as new.

It's there to spread the impact forces. It's a pretty common design, Predator aren't the only ones using that design. OB shafts used a similar pad and many CF shafts with very short ferrules uses a pad to spread the load and also dampen vibrations.

"The tip technology with the phenolic tip and carbon fiber plate, provides maximum energy transfer for a wood shaft"

That why a picture would be so helpful.. It's hard to diagnose problems without actually seeing what's going on, and even then, sometimes the only solution is to have the thing in your hand. It's not that I'm grumpy just because I'm old (although it might be a component, just turned 50..) It's...

Dude. Do you really think Predator is some high tech NASA stuff? Anyone who do this for a living has seen all of these shafts, taken them a part and repaired them and know how they are constructed. You don't have to be a Predator tech. Your answer gives me the impression you have read their...

Just post a picture. Samsara tips can pop off if they aren't prepped right. You are using very confusing language, that doesn't help. Predator shafts isn't more difficult to work on than any other brands, granted you know what you are doing.

If you are talking about product photos, they often use filters to reduce glare (pool cues are difficult to photograph) Usually the finish is much shinier irl than in the photo's Mr. Astle makes an excellent product, finishing included, so it's a great deep gloss finish you see in the photos and...

Based on similar style Motors, I'd say it's the speed controller that's bad. These generally seems to be incredibly flimsily made.

Live threading on the lathe.

A lot of replies about different tips, but I see very few that adresses the fundamental issue. Generally a jump tip benefits from being very hard, while a break tip is also much harder than a playing tip, you do want a certain amount of control, so these things will always be at odds with each...

1.240" / 31.5mm that seems to be what most players like these days. If you want 1.250" I'll do that too. I don't make skinnier cues that 1.240" though.

You can definitely seal and clear a linen wrap. Obviously it helps that the wrap is nice and clean and very tight. The looser the wrap, they more issues you potentially will have down the line. Another alternative if you want that wrapless feel is stacked leather, that can be sanded incredibly...

The Rasson tables are pretty good for the money. The Acurra is reasonably priced, looks nice and plays well. I have sold those to several pool halls.

It's a powder coated surface finish.

Yes you can repurpose hardwoods. I have shaft blanks made from old bowling alley floors, but if shafts is what you want to make, that's gonna have too meet some quite specific criteria. Could you use it for other wood projects that's not that critical in terms of grain etc. yeah, that would...

I have seen those bend. They are softer than you might think. G10 is generally much stronger.

They are much stronger than you might think. The alu ones on the other hand, stay away from those.

You can do that at fairly close to final size. If you're using a lighter wood as a core or a carbon fibre tube, just be mindful of hydraulic preassure. You want a tight fit, but you want the wood or CF dowel/tube to easily slide down the hole you bored.

Coring how? Do you want to drill out the front like Predator or do you plan on having some sort of core running through the whole shaft?

Very little margin for error on those. Go to a professional is my advice.