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Hi Scott. I'll send you some pictures, specs and settings in a message later today 😊

Not only that, some players actually think there's something wrong with their cue if it makes a ping sound...

If you have the logo as a high resolution file, you can certainly have decals made or as suggested above, you can have it laser etched. This is my logo etched on carbon fiber. Wood will be just as clean, but it will have a slightly dark surface due to the heat.

You are totally overthinking this. If you think that a plug of some magical material will let your cue play like a McDermott, you don't really understand how a cue is made and how the different materials interact with each other. If you absolutely want to change the pin, by all means do so...

I like a material that doesn't move as those plugs have fairly thin walls. So Hydex 202 or paper micarta.

Thanks. Never seen one like that. I have seen oversized ones though.

Undersized Radial joint? Do you mean Radial pin? I would say you are overthinking this.

2.54cm..

I think there's a big difference in how players learn and improve. Broadly speaking I would place them in two categories: - Happy go lucky players who just play - The analytical player The player that stops, assess their mechanics, shot selection, records themselves etc has in my experience a...

You need to sharpen HSS very, very often. If I use say a HSS parting tool, I sharpen it before every use.

You use the steady rest.

If you use HSS tools, you can sharpen those on a grinder with the correct wheel. Having said that sharpening HSS correctly is a skill in itself.. Personally I use solid carbide 99% of the time. Just make sure you have the right type of turning tool and inserts. SCLCR holders works great for most...

Depends on the burl, some are quite tight and you can get away with coring only, while some almost falls apart, so those absolutely needs to be stabilized and cored.

4 hours sounds excessive. Maybe if he's building up the wrap groove, that does take a lot of time. But generally prepping the cue, marking out and cutting the wrap doesn't take much time if you have the right tools. If he's using contact cement, that obviously needs to dry and that's a two stage...

I think the best advice is to watch a few videos on YouTube about basic lathe operations. Sounds like you are new to this and even though the cue lathes don't have that much power, it can still hurt you..

Some still use Nelsonite or other similar stabilizing agents, but it seems that the consensus now is that if a shaft want's to warp it does and the stabilizing agent just makes you spend more time on a shaft that still will warp at some point. It's the same with drying wood in general. Some...

Adding inlays and rings to a finished cue is a PITA and generally not worth the time and cost. If you have an idea for a design, reach out to your cuemaker of choice and start from scratch. It's the best advice I can give you.

What Mr. Webb is saying that what we commonly reffer to as 3/8-10, like what McDermott uses, really has a much smaller minor and most regular taps you can buy tends to tear the hole at that minor. With the regular taps sold by places like Atlas, it's hard to get nice looking threads before you...

"8 ply laminated pig skin" That's all it says on their page, so not a name brand. Pretty common to keep costs down..

You won't even be able to see that work has been done. Don't sweat it. Try with wax first and if that fails take it to your local cuemaker.