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You say "fairly straight" what does that really mean ?
Am I right in thinking that you want to refinish the cue to sell it and that's why you want to know the value?
 
You're probably looking at a few grand to the sky's the limit depending on the cue maker. I imagine you could find a number of cue makers who can make something similar in the 3k range.

I would not refinish a "fairly straight" cue unless you're just in love with it. That is unless its just a warped shaft and the butt is straight. Then just have a new shaft made along with the refinish so it matches up nicely.
 
aphelps1 said:
To the original poster:
Forum rules say not to discuss pricing here. If you like the cue then most any cuemaker would give your cue a refinish and put it back to new condition.

Hope that helps

Alan
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That was 16 years ago. Not saying it doesn’t apply but gauging overall market price isn’t the same as directly asking a cue maker to publicly post a quote.
 
vintagecollectibles831 said:
Hi, thanks so much for your reply, and your thoughts about how much the replacement value might be, to replace something like this.

I do not think the butt is warped. I believe that the really old finish is just throwing it off by a hair. When I spin the butt on my pocket lathe / straightness checker, I can see a hair of movement, but I can't see the joint pin move at all. The joint pin remains perfectly level during the spin. When the cue is rolled together with the shaft, the cue also looks like 99% straight, when rolled. Anyways, I do not know, but I get the feeling the a hair of uneveness in the refinish might be throwing the roll off by a hair, but I do not really know. Guess it needs to be spun on a big cue makers lathe, to be certain.

Thanks a lot for your reply.
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A few thousandth could be corrected on a refinish.
 
vintagecollectibles831 said:
Hi, this video kind of sucks, but it is the only thing I have to test straightness (these pocket lathe rollers). Anyways, does the movement that is shown appear to be more then a few thousandths? Thanks a lot. My camera also really kind of sucks, lol, because it is on a pretty old phone. So, it gets blurry during its attempts to auto focus, lol.

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I’d have to see in person and put a dial indicator on it but that doesn’t look to be terribly warped.

Up to you on what you want to invest but it seems like that would be fine to refinish.

Whoever does the refinish can certainly advise you before proceeding.
 
Bishop said:
That was 16 years ago. Not saying it doesn’t apply but gauging overall market price isn’t the same as directly asking a cue maker to publicly post a quote.
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vintagecollectibles831 said:
My question was not for any certain cue maker. It was more of a question on the average price range that a cue maker might charge to build something like this. I was not directly asking anyone in particular here how much they would personally charge. More of just an idea, on a price range, to build something like this, from the average cue maker out there. Just out of curiosity. I understand that the question is pretty pointless though, but I was still just curious.
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I understand, but pricing can vary widely from maker to maker. Asking what a certain cue would be worth is fine though. I think you have a great looking cue that would be well worth a refinish.

Alan
 
aphelps1 said:
I understand, but pricing can vary widely from maker to maker. Asking what a certain cue would be worth is fine though. I think you have a great looking cue that would be well worth a refinish.

Alan
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You’re right. It can vary. Which is why I said a few grand to the skies the limit. I don’t think his question was egregious at all or in any violation of the imaginary rights this forum has to gatekeep individual cue makers pricing.

He’s just trying to get an idea.

We should definitely revisit the rules of this forum. It’s been almost two decades. Things are a lot different now.
 
vintagecollectibles831 said:
I also wonder if doing points like this is a very hard skill set for a cue maker to learn. I really love the way the high / low points are done. They were recut, to blend in with each other, and I do not know, but it appears he did a pretty good job with the points. I really love the Maple veneers in the long points too.
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They appear to be recut v-points. Not difficult, but it does require an accurate and precise setup for consistent results.
Heavy duty equipment is likely a requirement, like a milling machine and highly repeatable tapering setups.
 
That cue needed a refinish from the jump. Whatever is on it is too thick. Nice looking cue it will be stunning with a refinish.
 
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