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Head over to the Ask a Cue Maker section.

Meltdown ? :)

edited....

sorry wrong term, not pivot but, the location of your bridge hand with relation to the shaft.

Why is she wearing two briefs?

Instead of using the full-length of the bridge tool that is normally used, can you used instead say a 12-inch-long bridge tool and a regular cue extension? This way your aiming stance does not change, and the bridge length is still the same vs a long bridge when using only a cue extension...

Try shooting with it...

Planning to have this cue made with Cocobolo and Quilted Sapele. I initially started with the design having joints, butt cap and rings, somehow, it seems to remove something from the cue, and I ended up with this. I once read that you should never join two pieces of wood together without...

For the same reason some shafts have the option of having a 30 inch vs a 29 inch version

You have the "best" players playing for a team, do you even need a captain? It is not like basketball where you have 5 players on the field with several more on rotation, it is either singles or doubles matches, which in turn provides 3-4 players not playing and can actually coach the players

WOW, looking at the design on the photos and I can't seem to wrap my head around this :)

Can you revive a dried up/hard ten year old tip?

Same here, when CF came into the picture, I told myself, I would not touch that $#!+. Now, I have 3 CF shaft, they don't have the feel/hit of the wood shafts, but I no longer need to constantly fix small dings on my shaft, they just seem to appear even if I am very careful with my cues

I had the same feeling, but got tired of fixing the little dings on the wooden shaft. eventually I was able to let go of the "Hit" of a wooden shaft...

Aside from joint, taper, tip diameter, if everything was equal, weight, tip diameter, deflection, balance, taper, are there other performance factors that needs to be considered?

When it comes to choosing a shaft, Is deflection the only factor? Are there other performance factors that needs to be considered, like will a certain shaft have more power given the same stroke/speed?

Check out SVB shot at 1 min 21 seconds on the 6 ball, SVB hit the CB for what was initially was a draw shot, but as there was not enough spin, balls moves forward for the correct shape on the 7. What is the difference or advantage between this shot and using a shot with top spin to get correct...

I'm going to miss, I'm going to miss, I'm going to miss, then you actually miss, How do I fix this?

Had the same sentiments last year, got tired of fixing dings on my wooden shafts, switched to carbon and never looked back. Still using wood for the butt as I love wood's pattern and color and the design/inlays that can be made. Carbon butts? who knows??? will probably switch if ever I damage...