Oil can be worked to a decent high gloss. I had a good friend who was a gunsmith for many years. I made him a cue and he said he would do the oil finish himself. I was blown away by his oil finish. Made me feel like a beginner.
It’s an art.
Many gunstocks use a product known as Tru-oil - which is a blend of linseed and natural oils. Dries pretty fast and remains clear. Waterproof as well. Have used it on pens for years when I wanted a hard, gloss finish. Fairly easy to locate - just google it. Hope this helps.
Joey, Hqueen, how do these oil finishes feel? I uses a slip stroke, do you think this would work better for that or is it tacky at all?
Many gunstocks use a product known as Tru-oil - which is a blend of linseed and natural oils. Dries pretty fast and remains clear. Waterproof as well. Have used it on pens for years when I wanted a hard, gloss finish. Fairly easy to locate - just google it. Hope this helps.
Just Thinking
An oil finish must significantly change the weight and weight distribution.?
In what way?
Any finish, once cured, has hardly any weight to it at all. While I have never attempted to weigh it, I’d be surprised if was even 1/10th of an ounce. I am open to any correction if someone has hard data.
Besides the obvious difference between oil and a usual auto clear, I wonder if there is a difference in how the cue vibrates when you hit a ball, the wave that travels down the cue that we describe as the “hit” of a cue. I have read that Balabushka used an oil finish. Is that a factor in how his cues hit?
Southwest has their satin/pacifier cues that have an oil finish. Do they play different from their regular cues?