If one can see that the glass is half full or half empty, then one can approximate filling the glass 1/4 full or 1/3 full by using the empty portion of the glass as an aid.
This can also apply to the OB in finding the contact point on its equator. The point closest to you that sends it to the pocket or target. One can point the tip of the cue at that point and rotate the cue using that point as the axis until the cue is now over the center of the CB
This creates a stick line that can be used in conjunction with a line from the center of the OB back to the center of the CB. This point and stick line will be to the side of the center of the OB except on a straight in shot.
If one can judge the distance from that point to the center of the OB, then one can use PJ's diagram for double distance aiming (DD).
Also, if one can see that point as a fractional or proportional offset from the center of the OB or the edge of the OB, whichever is easier to visualize, then one can apply that same fraction or proportion to the CB except on the other side of the center of the CB or CP2CP aiming.
This can be done with the cue as an aid (stick aiming) to establish a line from the CP on the OB to the CP on the CB. Then one only needs to firmly hold the cue on that CP2CP stick line and move the body/stance and cue to the side until the tip of the cue is aimed at the center of the CB, then, place your bridge under the cue on that line and shoot.
This will effect the parallel shift required for CP2CP aiming. Try it out on a 90 degree cut angle that aims the stick line from the edge of the OB to the opposite edge of the CB then shift to the center of the CB and see how close you get.
Of course as always, one needs to compensate for CTE and the different distances between the OB and the CB and....but it will get you close.
This might help?
Be well.:smile:
This can also apply to the OB in finding the contact point on its equator. The point closest to you that sends it to the pocket or target. One can point the tip of the cue at that point and rotate the cue using that point as the axis until the cue is now over the center of the CB
This creates a stick line that can be used in conjunction with a line from the center of the OB back to the center of the CB. This point and stick line will be to the side of the center of the OB except on a straight in shot.
If one can judge the distance from that point to the center of the OB, then one can use PJ's diagram for double distance aiming (DD).
Also, if one can see that point as a fractional or proportional offset from the center of the OB or the edge of the OB, whichever is easier to visualize, then one can apply that same fraction or proportion to the CB except on the other side of the center of the CB or CP2CP aiming.
This can be done with the cue as an aid (stick aiming) to establish a line from the CP on the OB to the CP on the CB. Then one only needs to firmly hold the cue on that CP2CP stick line and move the body/stance and cue to the side until the tip of the cue is aimed at the center of the CB, then, place your bridge under the cue on that line and shoot.
This will effect the parallel shift required for CP2CP aiming. Try it out on a 90 degree cut angle that aims the stick line from the edge of the OB to the opposite edge of the CB then shift to the center of the CB and see how close you get.
Of course as always, one needs to compensate for CTE and the different distances between the OB and the CB and....but it will get you close.
This might help?
Be well.:smile:
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