Slate question

qwerty53

New member
Hi,
I got old Brunswick pool table.
Its 3 parts slate (not backed up by wood) and I noticed (unfortunately only now) that most of the slate is not smooth like glass. It has ribbed surface. Very very fine ribbed but not as smooth as glass. Does this mean the slate is dead? Or should I just ignore it? Or should I fix it? (Because I didn't notice it when i saw it in his garage although the table was disassembled). Did you see slate like this?

Thanks!
 

Poolhalljunkie

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
slate

Pictures will help you get the best answer. I am betting that what you are seeing is grind marks from when the slate was cut and they shouldn't cause any problems, once your cloth is stretched over it. But I am sure an expert will chime in..
 

3kushn

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
They could be upside down??? Depending on how old, tables the slates were finished only on one side. There should have been wood framing glued to the bottom.
 

Dartman

Well-known member
Silver Member
When slate is honed it leaves grinding marks (those fine ribs) on the finished side.
If you have any gouges or deep scratches you can fix with bondo.
 

Mr. Bond

Orbis Non Sufficit
Gold Member
Silver Member
Hi,
I got old Brunswick pool table.
Its 3 parts slate (not backed up by wood) and I noticed (unfortunately only now) that most of the slate is not smooth like glass. It has ribbed surface. Very very fine ribbed but not as smooth as glass. Does this mean the slate is dead? Or should I just ignore it? Or should I fix it? (Because I didn't notice it when i saw it in his garage although the table was disassembled). Did you see slate like this?

Thanks!

the good news is - i doubt that the slate is ruined. as was mentioned, the grinding marks you are seeing might be the bottom of the slate, or not. but i have seen similar marks on the underside of slate before...

what model is it? perhaps the slate is supposed be lined but someone removed it...

perhaps someone has attempted to regrind the slate surface..and thats what you are seeing...

assuming they are on the top surface of the slate, are the ribbed marks deep enough to actually feel with your fingertips? if so, the slate may need to be resurfaced...

pictures always help.
 
Are the ribs symetrical? Do they have even spacing between? Do they run from side to side forming an arch? If so these are merely the milling lines created when surfacing the slate from the quarry. The distance between the lines is the travel between each rotation of the cutters on the milling head. Some are more pronounced than others. The closer they are together usually the more true the surface will be, But some slates composition is very dense and tends to vibrate slightly while being cut. Which can make the lines more pronounced in certain areas than others. I prefer the darker Italian slate myself. It tends to have a very consistant composition and cuts a bit softer which leads to less vibration, but nearly any slate can be cut properly with sharp blades and the proper feed rate. Please be sure that you are not looking at the bottom. Not to easy to screw that up but I have seen it done. The playing surface at the pockets will have a slight bevel or smooth transition in to the mouth of the pocket. Some bottoms are cut at a much quicker rate which spreads the lines out and can lead to roll offs if flipped.
 

PoolTable911

AdvancedBilliardSolutions
Silver Member
Are the ribs symetrical? Do they have even spacing between? Do they run from side to side forming an arch? If so these are merely the milling lines created when surfacing the slate from the quarry. The distance between the lines is the travel between each rotation of the cutters on the milling head. Some are more pronounced than others. The closer they are together usually the more true the surface will be, But some slates composition is very dense and tends to vibrate slightly while being cut. Which can make the lines more pronounced in certain areas than others. I prefer the darker Italian slate myself. It tends to have a very consistant composition and cuts a bit softer which leads to less vibration, but nearly any slate can be cut properly with sharp blades and the proper feed rate. Please be sure that you are not looking at the bottom. Not to easy to screw that up but I have seen it done. The playing surface at the pockets will have a slight bevel or smooth transition in to the mouth of the pocket. Some bottoms are cut at a much quicker rate which spreads the lines out and can lead to roll offs if flipped.

Great post...Welcome to the forum.
 
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