Then some put actual wood conditioner on the shaft and lightly sand that in. Then some add cue wax to make it slick, even.
Some never touch their shafts and let nature condition it.
Jeff Livingston
Shaft conditioner
- Thread starter Sensation
- Start date
Then some put actual wood conditioner on the shaft and lightly sand that in. Then some add cue wax to make it slick, even.
Some never touch their shafts and let nature condition it.
Jeff Livingston
Runny noses, exhaustion, confusion, euphoria, headaches, dilated pupils, tears, anxiety, muscle fatigue, insomnia, numbness of the skin, and liver or kidney damage are also all side effects of late nights playing pool.
Just FYI...
Cue Silk....
Hot Washcloth, wrung out as much as you can get, 1-2 quick swipes, paper towel rapid til dry, then fold up a clean paper towel, to about a 3-4 inch piece, drop 5-8 drops of cue Silk onto paper towel, then rub that ***** out. Get it warm, all the while rotating it with your other hand.
I've been doing this for 15+ years, and Never had any issues. Smooth as Silk.
https://www.amazon.com/Sterling-Gam...ocphy=9058203&hvtargid=pla-375315730986&psc=1
Hot Washcloth, wrung out as much as you can get, 1-2 quick swipes, paper towel rapid til dry, then fold up a clean paper towel, to about a 3-4 inch piece, drop 5-8 drops of cue Silk onto paper towel, then rub that ***** out. Get it warm, all the while rotating it with your other hand.
I've been doing this for 15+ years, and Never had any issues. Smooth as Silk.
https://www.amazon.com/Sterling-Gam...ocphy=9058203&hvtargid=pla-375315730986&psc=1
slick
Glove up.... nothing is smother stroke then a glove.
When sealers and waxes are not enough mainly due to the players hands excessive sweating ,then most of those players op to use a glove.
I am pretty picky about how shafts come out of my shop , least the solid maple shafts .
Lighter fluid and wax does a great job for awhile .After so many hours of play most shafts get sticky .
Yes its a pain in the ass even if you have some lathes I don't know of any single product that will keep the shaft super slick for anything over 40 hrs of playing time.
Wood conditioners normally don't make the wood surface slick , actually its opposite and the shaft is stickier because the shafts surface is smoother.
The smoother the surface the more contact area , more contact area , equals more drag or resistance .
Try a synthetic polymer car wax ..
Has the hardest surface and highest melting point , and use a glove with it ...
Glove up.... nothing is smother stroke then a glove.
When sealers and waxes are not enough mainly due to the players hands excessive sweating ,then most of those players op to use a glove.
I am pretty picky about how shafts come out of my shop , least the solid maple shafts .
Lighter fluid and wax does a great job for awhile .After so many hours of play most shafts get sticky .
Yes its a pain in the ass even if you have some lathes I don't know of any single product that will keep the shaft super slick for anything over 40 hrs of playing time.
Wood conditioners normally don't make the wood surface slick , actually its opposite and the shaft is stickier because the shafts surface is smoother.
The smoother the surface the more contact area , more contact area , equals more drag or resistance .
Try a synthetic polymer car wax ..
Has the hardest surface and highest melting point , and use a glove with it ...
All nighters
Ya but those were the days , party till you throw up and play pool .
Making your own Carnauba car wax .
I had a neighbor that made his own brand of Car waxes and sold it to detail shops for decades in southern California .
His hands tingled all the time , even after not making car wax for 15 years .
Ya but those were the days , party till you throw up and play pool .
Making your own Carnauba car wax .
I had a neighbor that made his own brand of Car waxes and sold it to detail shops for decades in southern California .
His hands tingled all the time , even after not making car wax for 15 years .
......this.......
You can get a whole box of generic magic eraser at the dollar store.
Rub the shaft just enough to get the grime off. Wipe 'er down with a
soft cloth. That's it. Good for cleaning those burn spots off a CB too.
.
I never apply anything to my shafts and only clean with a cotton cloth or burnish with a piece of leather if I feel dirt on them. Fortunately, my hands are not sweaty, so I don't have to battle that problem. After owning a South West cue for about 15 years, I had sent the shafts back to SW for new tips. Laurie asked me what finish I used on my shafts because they liked it in the shop. I told her that was my hand oil and reminded her that when I bought the cue, she said she would take it away from me if I ever mistreated it.
MalibuMike
Banned
Tiger S4 Sealer!
It will never let you down!
It will never let you down!
Slip Stick is what you want but no longer available.
Silicone for Cue Builders is a huge no no. I think mostly for their finish. They don't want the stuff within 10 miles of their shop. Auto Mfg Plants ban anything with silicone. It travels miles once let out of a can.
Best thing is don't bang your shaft, minimal sanding (only when you goof up) let the oils from your fingers do the work. 600grit is a harsh piece of paper, If you're not banging your cue every stroke.
The guy with the Southwest Cue has it right. If you have to sand a dent, spit and 1000+ grit.
If you must sand. 1500 or higher.
Add Patience
Silicone for Cue Builders is a huge no no. I think mostly for their finish. They don't want the stuff within 10 miles of their shop. Auto Mfg Plants ban anything with silicone. It travels miles once let out of a can.
Best thing is don't bang your shaft, minimal sanding (only when you goof up) let the oils from your fingers do the work. 600grit is a harsh piece of paper, If you're not banging your cue every stroke.
The guy with the Southwest Cue has it right. If you have to sand a dent, spit and 1000+ grit.
If you must sand. 1500 or higher.
Add Patience
I used to use Pledge also. It was also very easy: spray some on a rag, rub, remove excess, good to go. I'll give this a try again soon.
Pledge is known to be made of silicone and the woodworking world who -according to my recent reads- doesn't like silicone at all.
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What is sanding wet with cuesilk on the surface is supposed to accomplish?
So it's a Teflon spray? Any different from what Dupont makes?
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Non-Stick-Dry-Film-Lubricant-Aerosol/dp/B003UTX0R8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1534215553&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=dupont+teflon+spray&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Multi-Use-Lubricant-14-Ounce/dp/B008S7OHF6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1534215553&sr=8-6&keywords=dupont+teflon+spray
I'll look into that shaft sealer for sure. It's been recommended a lot around here.
What kind of silicone do you use specifically? Link please.
Sanding wet, and then wax over it? I don't get it...? Why?
I get you when you point out that the slicker, the more drag there is. BUT! Since I use a glove, I feel like the slicker, the better. Even a well maintained Cuetec (not very porous?) slides very well in a glove.
I've been on the verge of buying a can of this wax for years because of you ... I'll probably give it a go once and for all. Thanks!
*Do you still recommend applying lighter fluid in huge quantity over a spinning-like-crazy shaft? What brand of lighter fluid?
Spray can silicon (NOT foam) found in any hardware/auto store.
Wet?
No, I was speaking of using real wood sealers/conditioners like woodworkers uses to seal wood's pores. This can keep the chalk out, etc. It is used on more than cues. It is part of the finishing process for most wood items.
Then, there are the cleaners and slicker-upper products that follow that one, if those are even needed.
I just didn't understand the first post and what it was asking.
Jeff Livingston
Sprayon Food Grade Dry Silicone LU211 suitable for wood surfaces, 13.25 fl oz.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Food-Grade-Dry-Silicone-Spray-13-25-Oz/153080302
https://www.amazon.com/Food-Grade-Silicone-Spray-13-25/dp/B0086A7806
-Pacecar